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[May 20th, 1965] Monokini: The Madness Continues!

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by Gwyn Conaway

The Monokini, featured in orange. The Pope, Denmark, Greece, and the Netherlands have all banned it.

With summer on the verge, everyone’s attention is turning to swimwear, and I don’t think anyone will be talking about anything but Rudi Gernreich’s Monokini for a good while! The fashion activist is known for stirring up the hornet’s nest of Western sensibilities, apropos of his personal history and artistic goals. Let’s take a look at his past, and also at his shocking beachwear.

Rudi Gernreich, 1964.

Bear with me as I tell you of Rudi Gernreich’s childhood. He grew up in Vienna, Austria, the son of a stocking maker. He spent his afternoons in his aunt’s dress shop where he would sketch designs and share them with her clients. At age twelve, he was offered an apprenticeship by designer Ladislaus Zettel in London, but his mother declined due to his age.

His dress shop days did more than just betray his talent for fashion though. He recounts his first explorations of sexuality in fashion, and the liberation of women through their candid conversations in his young presence. His homeland was known also for promoting nude exercise during the time, in defiance of Western norms as much as for health. In 1938, Adolf Hitler banned this practice, and a sixteen year old Rudi fled Austria with his widowed mother for Los Angeles.

It was at this point that he began studying the arts in earnest. He attended the Los Angeles City College, and then the renowned Los Angeles Art Center School. He fell into fashion design some time after, a winding road that included dance and costume design, and a rejection of the American obsession with Parisian sophistication. He also helped found the Mattachine Society, a gay rights organization, in 1950.

Over the years, Gernreich's activist heart and artistic genius have formed a close bond, resulting in the scandalous Monokini. But we should have seen this scandal coming. In 1962 he predicted its arrival, saying that “bosoms will be uncovered within five years” in Women’s Wear Daily. And much to my amusement, he was recently quoted as saying that, for the sake of history, he had to fulfill his own prophecy before Emilio Pucci.

Peggy Moffit, photographed by husband William Claxton, in the infamous Monokini. It was named for its counterpart the bikini. A nice but inaccurate play on words. The bikini is named for the Bikini Atoll, an island used by the US for nuclear testing.

The result is the Monokini. Despite exposing the bust, it actually covers more skin than the bikini with its high-waisted bottom. Straps bisect the bust and run over the shoulders. In another nod to tradition and conservatism, the swimsuit is made of the same woolen fabric used in Victorian swimwear.

Women in 1925, wearing wool bathing suits. The material choices and shape of the Monokini speak to one of Gernreich's overarching goals in art: to humanize women rather than sexualize them through the freedom of their bodies.

The Monokini is a statement rather than merchandise. Although it’s currently on shelves, Gernreich has stated he doesn’t expect to sell any, and hadn’t intended to. In fact, he had to be persuaded to even take photos, calling on muse Peggy Moffit to wear it, and her creative cohort of a husband William Claxton to photograph it.

The journey of just the photographs itself is truly interesting. Look published the first photograph, from the back. Women’s Wear Daily followed suit, showing it from the front. When Gernreich approached Life about publishing the photos, their letter in response claimed they only print “aborigine” women’s breasts. (I would love to know Gernreich, Moffit, and Claxton’s thoughts on this! I hope notions such as this are abolished in quick fashion.) The image that lit the world on fire was accepted by Life however: Moffit with her arms crossed, covering her chest.

Despite Western reactions to the Monokini, Gernreich’s interests actually lay in the emancipation of women from over-sexualization and social censorship. He challenges the shameful gaze in Western beliefs, and tries to push society to see women as human beings rather than ‘other’. I find his work to be incredibly engaging and thoughtful, far more so than the tabloids make the Monokini out to be.

If the Monokini doesn’t single-handedly push us towards a moderate view of the human body, I’m sure Gernreich’s work in the next decade will!




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[February 2nd, 1965] Spring is a State of Mind.

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by Gwyn Conaway

Although the snowy blanket of winter is still upon us, fashion has already moved on to the vigor of spring! I just received my Vogue for February 1st, 1965 and opened its crisp pages with delight.  With Valentine’s Day right around the corner, I was expecting to see flouncy romanticism. What I found instead was fun, youthful, and quirky.

It seems the quirky attitude of the Valentine’s Day cards I plan to send out, featuring Wednesday Addams with a sweet little toy spider on her face, are more appropriate to the mood of the upcoming spring season than I’d anticipated.

Our decade, which has been defined so far with the sleek mod look of the Space Age, is getting a childlike update in 1965. The beautiful cocoons and narrow dresses of the early sixties are starting to blossom, quite literally. The stiff, boxy skirts and bodices are relaxing at the waist and necklines.

Note below (left), the beautiful narrow dress and its soft drape, cinched at the waist with a bold tape bow. All topped with the quizzical tall-domed cap. Beside her (right), sophisticated Town and Travel suedes complete with a sailor’s collar and a box pleat skirt back reminiscent of a school uniform. The effect of these combinations is perfectly summed up by the models’ expressions: curious and beguiling women, regardless of their age, will reign supreme this year.

February 1st, 1965 issue of Vogue

Ingenue, a fashion magazine for sophisticated teens, gives excellent insight for fashion to come. The iconic narrow coat, a staple in every woman’s wardrobe, is starting to soften around the neckline, leaving space for the column of the neck. Paired with slender bows about the jaw and felt hats to match the shoes (but not the coat), this early spring ensemble is at the height of this year’s fashion.

But perhaps most telling are the graphic shapes of flowers, stars, polka dots, and honeycomb in the accessories to the right. These large, simple symbols are what bridge the gap between the sophistication and playfulness I expect we’ll see in the months to come.

If Ingenue’s bold colors and simple motifs aren’t enough to convey the quirk of this year’s fashion, perhaps Vogue’s spotlight on “American Legs – Sweaters to Match” will convince you. These daring sweater and legging sets with contrast skirts and hats are gutsy and imbued with personality. Any woman sporting these fresh styles will certainly draw the eye.

The paillette theatre suit (left) is not only richly detailed, but relaxed by comparison to evening wear of the past couple years. Note the contrasting accessories as well as the slender, gathered waistband. The Trifari pins (right) are also bold, and a refreshing departure from adornment of the last few years.

Both professional women and aspiring girls feel emboldened to share their energetic personalities as a part of their fashion, rather than adorn themselves in chic geometry alone. We are seeing sophistication and youthful wonder coming together as our age defines itself as separate from the fifties. As the decade tips towards the seventies, I can’t wait to see what youthful inspirations we’ll discover. As the editor of Vogue wrote in their letter this issue, "Spring is a state of mind."




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[November 27, 1964] I'll be dressed for Christmas (JCPenney’s 1964 Christmas Book)

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by Gwyn Conaway

The smell of hot cider, the dazzling reflections of tinsel on trees, the fog of laughter in the air. It’s the holiday season at last! While others are contemplating the foods they’ll cook, the slopes they’ll ski, and the gifts they’ll give, I’m wondering what they’ll be wearing while they do it. Let’s crack open this year’s JCPenney’s Christmas Book and see what’s in store for the yuletide.

Both men and women are looking to the deep v-neck sweater as a casual staple for the winter.

This season is bold, featuring wide stripes, large plaids, ruffles, and plump quilting. Although the occasional pastel creeps into the palette, the primary colors of this Christmas season are white and red with pops of frosty blue and pink. This modern color scheme has made green feel outdated this year. Only one dress in the Christmas Book this year is green, and although the ensemble is sharp, the color doesn’t stand up to the energetic blues and pinks we’ll be seeing come December.

Childrenswear is especially dear this year, with ensembles such as the satin-stripe cotton ‘Pima Miat’ dress pictured below on the left with a nylon marquisette underskirt. The wide stripes feel more delicate with the pastel tone-on-tone palette, while the ruffled bib and sleeve give it the panache the season deserves.

In addition to the satin-stripe 'Pima Miat' dress, this page of the Christmas Book features a cotton velveteen jumper with cotton blouse (center) and a cotton velveteen bodice with rayon print petticoat that shows prettily under a sheer nylon overskirt (right) in both big sister and little sister sizes.

But of course, not all winter fun happens around a tree in our living rooms. Braving the cold is half the fun! I’m excited to see quilted ski parkas paired with black patterned toques and stretch ski pants, as seen below. A hood is hidden in the mother’s smart mandarin collar as well as the men’s while the daughter’s fur hood is proudly displayed: dyed mouton lamb’s fur. The Christmas Book also boasts a wide selection of after-ski boots in suede and capeskin gloves for all ages.

Women’s coats shine in this year’s issue as well. Two beautiful options caught my eye: the Milliken Mirette plaid (left) and trench coat (right), both made of rayon-and-acetate laminated to foam for a woolen look and feel. Water repellant, of course, and sure to be stylish well into the spring.

But of course, the pressing question, really, is what to wear during our precious holidays with family around the hearth. To my delight, JCPenney has offered a solution for the entire family. The red and white striped combinations below are sure to add a festive air to Christmas morning. Top off the sweet family portrait with matching slippers in either patent pleather or electrified shearling lamb.

If your family isn’t into matching styles, there are other options for girls and women to consider. Perhaps my two favorite items in the Christmas Book this year are the red peignoir and the pink cover-up below. The peignoir has a suede appearance for a glamorous but warm leisurely look. Simple lines accented by the narrow bow at the waist , a three-quarter sleeve, and the slanted trouser pockets all give this peignoir a classic, regal finish.The pink cover-up, also in a suede fashion, is bright and perky as well as warm. Its standing collar and self-fabric buttons aren't the only fun details. The pop of berry and fir stems that appear to be around the neck bring a youthful sparkle to the wearer. This one is also available in the frosty blue of the season.

Yes, JCPenney’s Christmas Book for 1964 is a delight, imbuing classic styles with a fresh palette. It addresses all ages and brings fun to the family, both through its selection of toys for the children and its collection of warm winter wear in pinks and blues. Not only is the palette of the season bold, it’s clever. By casting green off to the wayside, we now have a palette that could last through Easter. Looking forward, I wonder if we’ll be adding spring green back into the mix, in lighter, frothier colors for next year? A reinvention of the color, perhaps? Food for thought.

But rather than linger on my exuberant predictions, I plan to enjoy the season as it unfolds with a hot cider and some roasted chestnuts. 

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[August 19, 1964] Seasonal Musings: Fall/Winter 1964

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by Gwyn Conaway

It’s August! Despite the summer heat, I always look forward to this time of year. Why, you ask? Because I can look forward to the fashions of another Fall/Winter season!

And what a majestic season it will be for coats, dresses, and evening gowns. We’ll look at some of these beautiful details from major fashion houses here and in Europe, as well as how well they support my predictions of the last season through revolutionary past ages.


The Sears Catalog is my go-to resources for seeing fashion on the streets. This amazing resource gives great insight to what will be available in stores, not just on the runway. It seems like woolens and corderoy will be major players this season! Fall Fashions, Sears Catalog, 1964

With a new school year just around the bend, and women looking excitedly for the changing of the leaves, it’s no wonder our catalogs and department stores have started showing off their interpretations of this year’s Fall/Winter runways. Above we can see a fantastic palette of mulberry, teal, cobalt blue, and russet brown, perfect for ushering in the new season.

In addition, there’s an overarching theme of funnel collars and square, modest busts. The neckline is kept away from the base of the neck, allowing the column of the throat to look longer and slimmer. This is perfectly in line with the proclivities of a revolutionary period, where the rules of fashion are changing drastically. Rather than pull attention to the bust and waist, fashion is now more interested in wrists and ankles and necks. Fascinating!


Of course, this trend is following the works of major designers. Here is a pattern from this year of Jeanne Lanvin’s hooded silk cocktail dress and pink coat made from wool coating. The collar here is exaggerated, leaving room for the hood of the dress to frame the face and neck. Allowing the neck and face to rise from a thicker collar or ballooning shape creates the iconic cocoon style of our time.

The evening gowns walking the runways for this winter are scrumptious as well. Let’s take a look at what’s in store for us this year, and how it’s evolved from the previous season. When I compared the two, my excitement became palpable!


The evening fashion of 1963 compared to the Neoclassical era in my previous fall article:
Scrying the Future by Looking Back


Balenciaga Fall/Winter 1964

Last year, we started showing the signs of a neoclassical era with soft solid-color skirts, waistlines on the lower ribs, and square torsos with abstract natural motifs. This year, the trend continues, but with ever more fervor. Note above that Balenciaga has dived head first into this renaissance. The designer’s evening gowns this year sport flat bows and voluminous satin skirts that extend from the bust. These styles allow for the neck and arm to garner all the attention rather than the more traditional bust and waist.


Designers from left to right: Hannah Troy, Yves Saint Laurent, Anne Fogarty, 1964.

Many other designers are also exploring the redefinition of beauty in similar ways. Hannah Troy’s Schiaparelli pink evening gown is an uncanny likeness to the round gowns of the 1810s. Yves Saint Laurent and Anne Fogarty follow a similar train of thought with their cocktail dresses, both of which sport overbust satin bows, forcing our eye to lengthen the leg and dramatically shorten the torso.

The funnel collar and thick woolens, the hidden waists and exposed arms; all of it is bound to leave a lasting impression on the decade. In particular, I’m excited to see the overbust move into mainstream catalogs and department stores in the coming months. Such a fresh and energetic new symbol of the changing times! It is sure to ignite inspiration for fashion in the months to come.

[Come join us at Portal 55, Galactic Journey's real-time lounge!  Talk about your favorite SFF, chat with the Traveler and co., relax, sit a spell…]




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[April 30, 1964] Mary Mary Quite Contrary: Mary Quant and the Modern Woman

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by Gwyn Conaway

One of the brightest fashion minds of our time has been hiding under our very noses. Though she isn’t an atelier in Paris, she has pulled the rug right out from under our feet. André Courrèges, whom I spoke about in my last article, is often attributed with inventing the miniskirt, but it’s Mary Quant who holds more claim over its popularity and invention. From her store in London to her fresh polka dots, let’s look at how Mary Quant is propelling fashion forward in a fresh way.


Mary Quant in her studio, developing her ideas for the early 1960s. On the right, see her wearing her fully-realized mini skirt fashion herself. Her post, activity, and sharp demure perfectly sum up the powerful woman behind this bold trend.

Bazaar, Quant’s boutique on the corner of Brompton and King’s Road in London, opened its doors in 1955. The store has since become a hallmark of the neighborhood. After the dreary reconstruction of London, middle-class women yearned for bold palettes and fast-paced silhouettes. While these fashions could be seen in films and magazines and the runways of Paris and New York, Bazaar offered this to the masses.

Quant started pushing the boundaries of skirt hems in the fifties, shortly after Bazaar opened. She wanted to create a fashion that allowed women to chase after the bus, when necessary. A truly modern woman, she exploited utility to create iconic looks that felt hip and powerful.


Quant considering her design choices this year, 1964.

And she hasn’t let up as 1964 comes to pass. Just last year, her design was named the first Dress of the Year by the Fashion Museum, Bath, which promises to be a long-standing tradition. The ensemble in question is a grey wool ‘Rex Harrison’ cardigan dress with a cream blouse, the bow collar hanging almost as long as the hem above the knee. This expert balance of professional and whimsical, classic sentiments being redefined by a younger, bolder generation, are the hallmarks of a Mary Quant design.

Unlike the mod trends of André Courrèges, Mary Quant puts modern women at the forefront of every decision. Her garments are fashionable, yet comfortable. They’re utilitarian, for a girl on the go, rain or shine, while encouraging individuality in a way that Courrèges does not. While his fashions are technologically utopian in theme, lifting up the Space Age and Futurism, Quant’s designs are made to let city women live a powerful dream. 

Graphic yet delicate silks paired with classic, nubby wools are a favorite contrast for Quant. Her stripes and polka dots speak of timeless femininity while wrapped in the sturdy embrace of tweed and loden. Even her PVC raincoats, as seen above, carry that delicate balance between powerful and whimsical. Note the peter pan collar, a staple of girls’ fashion in the 1950s, now becoming a symbol of a rising, intellectually-driven beauty industry made by women, for women.


Not only do her fashions bring us forward, but they also pay homage to the groundbreaking efforts of Coco Chanel, and the leaps women took to join the modern age in the 1920s. Note the dropped double-welt pockets, hanging parallel to the skirt hem, and the self-fabric belt draped across the hips.

Yes, Mary Quant’s reach has extended far beyond fashion, into the mentality of Londoners and fashion enthusiasts across the world. No longer does fashion belong only to the ateliers in Paris, or Savile Row. Perhaps the second half of the twentieth century will be shaped by the masses rather than social elitism. What a fantastic thought! Whether the name Mary Quant is on the tip of everyone's tongue in fifty years makes no difference. Her impact is resounding, and will guide beauty for our generation, and those to come.

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[January 20, 1964] André Courrèges: Moon Parties

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by Gwyn Conaway

The Space Age has seized the public consciousness, influencing design in everything from architecture to cereal. Fashion is no exception, and one fellow has made it his mission to ensure that tomorrow's fashion will be out of this world.

André Courrèges, a French fashion designer with a young atelier in Paris, is rising quickly in the fashion world. Though he worked for ten years as an assistant to Cristóbal Balenciaga, his own fashion house opened only recently, in 1961.

Since his coming out, he has made considerable waves. Mark my words, 1964 will be a big year for this fresh designer. Let’s take a look at what his house has accomplished, and what his Spring 1964 collection will bring to the proverbial table. But before we jump into his plans for this year, let’s take a look at his philosophy.


Courrèges has become known for his flat, mid-calf-length moon boots and bubble hats. Note that the hats here are not made of soft felt, as we’d expect, but smooth, semi-gloss leather. This material choice makes the style feel more like a helmet.

It’s no surprise that Courrèges began his schooling as an engineering student. Many of his designs focus specifically on mobility for the modern woman. “You do not walk through life anymore. You run. You dance. You drive a car. You take a plane, not a train. Clothes must be able to move too.” He pays particular attention to the knees, usually leaving them bare in his designs to express this sentiment. He also minimizes the bust, ignores the waist, and lengthens the neck, as if to highlight adolescent curiosity rather than womanly charm. Note his iconic flat-soled leather boots as well – perfect for running.


Spring, 1964

In 1963, Courrèges shocked the world with his perspective on young, athletic, mobile women. He recently stated, “My problem is not rich embroidery, useless lavishness. It is to harmoniously resolve functional problems, just like the engineer who designs a plane.” With these principles in mind, he introduced the trapezoid shift and slim-legged trouser suit to mainstream ready-to-wear, thereby liberating women from the restrictive nylons, heels, and merry widows of the previous era.

So what are the designer’s big plans for 1964? A little birdie has told me that he is no longer looking to the engineers that design planes, but to the engineers that design rockets. That’s right! Courrèges has his sights set on the moon.


Moon Girl Collection, André Courrèges, Spring 1964: Moon Girls are ready for adventure and the dawning of a new age. Note the lack of nylons, heels, and excess fabric. This collection is aimed at women a la carte, and embraces our technological future.

In fact, his Spring collection is titled the Moon Girl Collection. This upcoming line is sure to shake the foundations of fashion with its shiny white palette, geometric cuts, and iconic white moon boots. Even the lace trouser suits he has debuted this spring are orderly, flat, and made of stiff wool to keep that geometric silhouette. In addition to wool lace, triple gabardine and PVC are Courrèges’ secret weapons this year. When in motion, these textiles maintain their industrial, geometric silhouette, reinforcing the the designer’s “uniform”. Even fashion photography seems to have changed, preferring weightless, jumping, twisting women. With stiff silhouettes and wry bodies, it’s almost as if Courrèges models are floating in space.


Boxy coats with uniform double-breasted buttons and slim trousers are a defining ensemble this spring, as is the designer’s signature wool daisy lace.

Thanks to Courrèges, we’ve seen a transformation from whimsical quaintness to industrious sophistication, where function and beauty are considered in equal measure. This major shift has happened almost entirely within the past year. Now Coco Chanel’s landmark little black dress is replaced with the white trapezoid shift. Stunning! If Courrèges has set the pace for this decade, what do you suppose is waiting for us come next spring?




(Gwyn's work is just one of the many efforts we're proud of here, at the Journey.  Come see why the Journey is a Hugo-worthy endeavor!)

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[November 23, 1963 cont.] After a fashion

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by Gwyn Conaway

I'm hungry for answers, but more than anything, simply heartbroken. We will forever relive this day through Jackie Kennedy's watermelon pink Chanel suit. Make no mistake, our First Lady's ensemble will live forever. Rather than being the symbol of strength, compassion, and grace, as both Coco Chanel and Jackie Kennedy would have wanted, the suit has been transformed into a symbol of tragedy and death.

I am heartbroken, not because it is a beautiful piece of fashion tarnished by the fall of a great man. I am heartbroken because we will all experience today over and over in the decades to come. Fashion will lash out and redefine the watermelon pink suit as a symbol of the crumbling American Dream. Its visage will become sour, like rotten fruit, as our nation's loss fades away. More than that, I mourn for Jackie Kennedy, who will stand by as her suit is redefined in the years to come and see the ghosts of today rise anew. 




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[October 16, 1963] A Look at Fall Fashion; Scrying the Future by Looking Back

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by Gwyn Conaway

Jackets, Dresses, and Tights, oh my! Fall is here! In stores, in our homes, and in the chilly air! For fashion, though, the autumnal breeze has been calling our names since the runways of the late summer. And as far as fashion designers are concerned, red and orange foliage isn’t the only thing stirring our favorite season this year.

As major designers have released their latest trends, a chord has rung out across each and every fresh idea, one that fashion historians will pick up on immediately. Let’s take a look at what fashion designers are scrying in their crystal balls.


Biba is a rising star in London Fashion. Note that its illustrations harken back to the glory days of Art Deco. Gossip says they’ll be opening up a physical boutique soon, at 87 Abingdon Road.

Youth power is taking over fashion. The Beatles debut LP has rocketed them to the top of the charts, causing the frenzy we now call Beatlemania. Barbara Hulanicki and Stephen Fitz-Simon have also jumped on the bandwagon with their new mail-order service Biba, spreading London fashion worldwide. Last but certainly not least, the Beat Generation, although originally a literary movement in New York in the early 1950s, has grown ever more mainstream. All of these trends follow a pattern of cultural and aesthetic non-conformity we’ve seen time and time again in fashion history.

For fashion, paying homage to the past is not unusual. The style of bygone eras is imbued with more and more mystic power the longer time marches on. Fashion, much like music and writing, becomes nostalgic in a way that inspires future artists to be daring in their own time. Being inspired by the past can, ironically, push us forward into a new era.

Two recent fashion periods come to mind when considering youth revolutions. The Neoclassical–the era of Pride and Prejudice–spanning the early 19th century, and the rip roaring Twenties. To my glee, what do you suppose I found inspiring fall fashion this year?

Bing bing bing! If I didn’t point out that Coco Chanel designed the above Little Black Dress (middle) in 1927, most people would assume that it was contemporary style when in actuality, it transformed women’s lives more than three decades ago. No longer did women have to go home to change in between activities. With the LBD, one could jet from work to play and live a more mobile life.

When compared to Peggy Moffitt wearing Rudi Gernreich (right) or Pierre Cardin (left), the inspiration is shockingly clear. Note the low waist on both contemporary styles, with high necklines, flat chests, and columnar silhouette. Both designers have also looked to the details: While Gernreich draws from the LBD’s wide waistband, Cardin chose the pleated skirt.

Coco Chanel’s LBD isn’t the only Prohibition Era inspiration this year. Flappers, the ushers of rebellion and sexual awakening during the 1920s, are also in style, and they’ve moved from the tantalizing underground of dance halls and cocktails to modern day evening wear. Note above that the dress designed by Louise Boulanger in 1928 (left) has inspired the ombre feathered skirt, high round neckline, and low waist of James Galanos’ evening dress this year (right).


This model wearing Marimekko clearly looks back into a gallery of Neoclassical early-mid 18th century statues and paintings, symbolising our return to youth power and abandonment of traditionalism in fashion. Scalloped edges such as the color blocking on her dress, were dominant elements of design in both the Neoclassical and Art Deco movements as well.

The Neoclassical Era also plays a role in our fashion this fall. High necklines, short jackets with long, light-toned skirts, and simple bows are all reminiscent of the early 1800s. This comes at no surprise, considering Europe was celebrating the downfall of the French monarchy. After the Ancien Regime was booted from Versailles, a working class renaissance took hold of France’s youth. Women let go their corsets and hoops, just as our young people today have forgotten the merry widows and petticoats of the voluminous 1950s.

More traditional designers such as Christian Dior have taken up the Neoclassical for nuanced inspiration this year. Take above, for example, the Soiree a Venise Dress (left) and a pink evening gown (right), both from the House of Dior’s F/W 1963 collection. Note that both gowns have a high waistline and self-made bows (meaning the textile is used both for the body of the garment and the details). The skirt shape is stiff and while the pink ensemble’s bodice is covered in jewels, patterns and textiles are otherwise not mixed. The Neoclassical style is similar (middle), with self-made trims and bows, a stiff conical skirt, and high waistline.  

One final morsel in regards to the Neoclassical influence we see this year is this: it seems to me that we’re wearing our inspiration backwards. Note that this winter’s evening dresses hug the back of the body while the front explodes forward (right). In the early 1800s, our silhouette was exactly the opposite (left). Does this perhaps symbolize a move toward revolution while the Neoclassical represented the world after revolution? Whether or not this is the case, this short-lived phenomenon is compelling nonetheless.

As ever, fashion this fall is a fortune teller that looks back at history to comment on today. Designers sense the rise of youth power, and eagerly look forward to the clash of generations to come. I must admit that I look forward to it too. What a wild ride awaits us!




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[July 28, 1963] Africa: From End to End A Beautiful Garden; A Swan Dive into Vogue’s New Grand Tour

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by Gwyn Conaway


Seydou Keïta, a Malian photographer, is known for his portraiture, particularly of women that simultaneously become a part of their environment and assume command of it.

The newest Vogue offers a refreshing departure from the traditional venues of Paris, London, and New York.  Its pages have let me peek into the lives of people in places I’d never thought much about. For this summer’s Vogue embarks on a grand tour of Africa. It offers glimpses of Nigeria and Uganda, worlds wholly different from and beyond our own.  Much like when Alice follows the White Rabbit to Wonderland, I’ve found myself both in awe of this new adventure and questioning my place within it.

The words of Mary Roblee Henry struck a lasting chord with me when she wrote “Africa, in fact, has everything – except a frame of reference.” As of fifty years ago, the African continent, with the exception of the Empire of Ethiopia, was entirely colonized by Europe. As a result, our American eyes have always seen Africa as an extension of our own desire for adventure, not a continent with its own rich point of view.


Marchesa Sieuwke Bisleti on her farm Marula in the Kenyan highlands with two leopard cubs. She wears a grass green linen Serengeti shirt, khaki slacks, and earthy brown leather boots.

In addition to touring Nigeria and Uganda, this issue of Vogue documents the daily life of Marchesa Sieuwke Bisleti in Kenya, where she cares for many exotic animals on her farm, Marula. Western women in their 30s crave her practical elegance. She embodies the windswept beauty of a woman who has seen adventure and now lives comfortably within that frame of mind.

As romantic as this notion is, our sense of adventure may be a double-edged sword. On one hand, wearing bush jackets, Gurkha shorts, and khaki freesuits gives us a taste of discovering those distant, ancient, untouched places. On the other hand, it revives imperialist sentiments just as the continent Churchill once called “from end to end one beautiful garden” gains its independence.


Above: Abubakar Tafawa Balewa on leave with his children on his farm in northern Nigeria. Below: Finance Minister Okotie-Eboh and his wife, both wearing Iro skirts. Okotie-Eboh was also an Itsekiri chief near the Benin River.

After devouring every page of Vogue, I turned to current events. I needed more than Western fantasies to quench my curiosity. Luckily, Queen Elizabeth II has been busy on the continent, working closely with the soon-to-be Federal Republic of Nigeria to recall the British protectorate.

I was struck by the big personalities of Prime Minister Abubakar Tafawa Balewa and Finance Minister Festus Okotie-Eboh. How had I never paid attention to Nigerian politics before! Although, in the picture above, Tafawa Balewa is sitting in a casual setting, far from the pomp and circumstance of the capitol, he still exudes authority, as if he belongs to the country as much as it belongs to him. Perhaps the simple, large, billowing shapes of his agbada emphasize his assumption of power.

Okotie-Eboh, however, truly uses Nigerian fashion and tradition to make a grand statement. He and his wife in the image above are breathtaking, adorned in many yards of traditional Nigerian textiles, peacock feathers, and coral beads. While part of me is giddy for Okotie-Eboh’s bold choices, I’m also concerned for the burgeoning republic’s image. Do his people see the grandeur as a statement of pride, or do they see indulgence and excess? This is a question I have no answer to for the moment, but leaves me feeling uneasy for the future.


Nigerian women standing for a portrait. Note that the woman in the center is wearing an English dress suit while the ladies on either side are wearing the traditional iro (skirt), buba (shirt), and gele (headwrap)

Beyond Nigeria’s politicians, her people possess a breathtaking strength of character. More so than in any fashion line or runway show, Nigerians’ personal power and charisma is interwoven into their textiles and fashion. In the clamour to define the modern Nigerian identity, traditional and European aesthetics are caught in a fiery dance for domination. 

The younger generation in particular is visually torn between their new independence and the allure of western style. Men here combined sports jackets of the finest linens and tweeds with their white or brightly colored, airy agbadas and Oxford brogues. Girls wear western polka dotted blouses with their iros and beaded jewelry.



Photography by J.D. ‘Okhai Ojeikere

Photographers like J.D. ‘Okhai Ojeikere and Seydou Keïta explore this in their portraiture. One moment, Ojeikere will photograph wealthy Nigerians dressed head-to-toe as fashionable young British women, donning pumps, sundresses, and pearl earrings. The next, he’ll snap a photo of two men leaning against an enviable Rambler Ambassador parked on rich Nigerian red earth roads, one in a dress shirt and tie, the other in a traditional agbada, with a backdrop of Coca Cola trucks, stressing the country’s identity crisis.


Sade Thomas-Fahm sources local Nigerian textiles to create her own take on European fashions.

Considering the events in Nigeria right now, I was shocked to learn how difficult it has been for these artists to blaze their creative trails. Take Sade Thomas-Fahm, for example. She’s an up-and-coming fashion designer from Nigeria, and the first woman to open her own boutique in the country. Her designs combine tradition and modernism, reinventing British silhouettes with Nigerian textiles. Although it’s a perfect marriage, the public is a hard sell. It seems to me that the European influence over the African continent will be strong for many years to come.

Circling back to Mary Roblee Henry, I now find myself wary of style icons such as Marchesa Sieuwke Bisleti after exploring some of Africa’s “missing” frame of reference (which I now know is not so much “missing” as covered by a veil of European colonialism). Although I can’t help but feel the call to adventure, the romance of bush jackets and Gurkha shorts comes with a dash of bitterness now. Instead, I think I’ll find my practical elegance elsewhere, and look to lift up the voices of those like Sade Thomas-Fahm.

Now there is a true adventure.

Special Thanks to Nigerian Nostalgia Project for images from their archives.




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Fashion, music, politics, sports, Movies

[April 3, 1963] Feathered Threads (Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds)

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by Gwyn Conaway


The Birds , directed by Alfred Hitchcock, premiered on March 28th, 1963.

Just yesterday I saw Alfred Hitchcock’s new film The Birds.  On its surface, the premise is quite simple — the avians in a peaceful locale suddenly turn murderous.  It's a superb piece of suspense from the unarguable master of such things.  As the sun rose this morning and I sipped my coffee, I wondered if the little songbirds in my garden could ever turn on me. What a chilling thought!

Of course, try as Hitchcock might to distract me with scenes of feathered terror, being me, I couldn’t help but notice the costume design. And while, the pre-release copy of the film I saw was in black and white, my privileged position at the studio let me observe the costumes in person (and in living color). With the film released, I can finally share what I’ve seen! 

Costume designer Edith Head masterfully combined the sleepy seaside palette with the elegance of the city through cut and fit. Lydia Brenner, played by the talented Jessica Tandy, is a great example of this harmony. Her fabrics are those that we associate with the country. Tweeds and contrast knits in particular are found throughout her design. However, her silhouettes are fresh and metropolitan. Head even mixes in fine silks to give her an air of sophistication. This combination also illuminates the teetering balance Brenner tries to maintain between a domineering and doting mother.


Lydia’s tweed cocoon coat is a beautiful example of how the fashion-forward city silhouette has creeped into Bodega Bay while maintaining the little coastal town’s country charm.


In this casual evening ensemble, we can see her motherly conundrum. Note the fine silk charmeuse blouse beneath the contrast knit cardigan. The “knit” side of Lydia’s personality is docile, while the “silk” side is conniving.

This subtle design emphasizes the obvious tension between Lydia and Melanie, played by Tippi Hedren, a socialite with designs on Lydia's son. Melanie is a city girl through and through. Her palettes play on this contrast. Her dress suit and fur jacket drip with metropolitan wealth.

When she borrowed a dinghy to sneak across the bay, I was struck with the direct comparison of the texture of the docks to her red fox fur coat. I realized that, in her own misguided way, she was using the natural texture of the fur to try helplessly to blend in with the little town; a detail that lends itself to her rather clumsy and charming game.

The star of the film was obviously her dress suit. The costume is an open jacket with small patch pockets that sit low on the hem and sleeve cuffs that fall just above the wrist. It’s cut to perfection with a single vertical dart from shoulder to bust that helps the jacket maintain a square yet smooth shape over the bust. The matching dress beneath is a sheath cut, sleeveless, with a three-inch wide self belt and an invisible zipper down the center back. What you can’t deduce from the release of the film, however, is that the dress suit is a tangy, energetic pistachio green!


Beautiful, isn’t it?

Draped in the color of spring, is it any wonder that Lydia feels threatened by the young and boisterous Melanie? Certainly not. However, I think the real source of Lydia’s uneasiness lies in Mitch’s wardrobe.

Lydia's son, Mitch Brenner, played by Rod Taylor (star of The Twilight Zone and The Time Machine, is a man caught between the slow-paced life of Bodega Bay and the bustling hubbub of the city. Although the seaside town is his escape, he is always destined to leave it for San Francisco.


Note that his styling, the ribbed fishing captain’s sweater paired with the paisley ascot, is that of a wealthy yachter rather than the resident of a coastal town.


Residents of Bodega Bay holed up in the local cafe with Melanie. The contrast in texture between her smooth dress suit and the local nappy textiles help her stand out among the crowd. Compare their looks with Mitch above for a similar effect.

At the same time, he follows his mother’s habits of using fashionable silhouettes with more textured fabrics. The suit he wears to his sister’s birthday party is an excellent example. A slender tie paired with a wide-gorge shirt collar and a high notch on the lapel of his suit jacket make for a very trendy man.

Rather than being concerned over the women in his life, perhaps Lydia is concerned for the patterns she sees within her son. Is he destined to forget her? Will he leave her like his father did before him?

The frenzy of the birds in Bodega Bay is a terrifying mystery. They seem to gather against humans without cause. However, I wonder if the answers don’t lie in Lydia’s fears. The birds crowd the town’s residents gradually and then strike with sudden ferocity. A similar feeling is commonly associated with anxiety. Lydia’s fears about her son are chronic with acute moments of panic. Could Lydia, in fact, be the subconscious cause of the birds?

I can only imagine that the connection is deliberate. Just as Edith Head wove the fabric of the costumes with the psyche of the characters, so Hitchcock wove a deeper theme into his film, elevating a "monster flick" into cinema for the ages.




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