With summer well underway, silk wraps and teardrop jewels are in full bloom in the fashion scene. And while being in love with the Silk Road is nothing new in the West, we seem to be turning away from Egypt in favor of the majestic silks and gems of ancient kingdoms such as India and Thailand.
Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra, released in 1963 wearing the iconic 24-carat gold phoenix cape designed by Renie Conley. Note what Revlon has referred to as the “Sphinx Eye” makeup that has so heavily influenced women’s faces today.
Elizabeth Taylor’s depiction of Cleopatra in 1963 sparked a healthy obsession with women’s power in Europe and North America. Before we knew what hit us, her iconic smokey eye, dark brows, and blunt haircut took the beauty industry by force. Now, two years later, women are looking at powerful images in South Asia as a shining example of the adventurous spirit and strength of women across the globe.
Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur wearing a delicate sari and wrap, gold bangles, and two heavy strings of pearls as she discusses politics in a local community. The word “Maharani” can mean the wife of a great ruler, or “Maharaja”, but also a woman that is a great ruler. Great Maharani have wielded power in recent years in such places as Thailand, Nepal, India, and Malaysia.
Inspiration comes from India courtesy of Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur, a member of the Indian Parliament and a purveyor of the arts. Having won her electoral race in 1962 in the largest landslide in history (winning 192,909 out of the 246,516 cast), she continues to be a force of social change. Thanks in part to her, we see the traditional Indian paisley patterns and silk wraps reminiscent of saris this year in Vogue.
Perhaps one of her most impactful contributions to fashion though, is the popularization of Rajasthani blue. This beautiful color is vital to arts and crafts of the region, and has inspired a blue palette steeped in mysticism in the West. In Vogue this February, Jacqueline described this as the “Maharani mood” for the spring of this year.
An advertisement in Vogue’s Feb 15th, 1965 issue for Jacqueline’s Blue-Jade and Baby Ganges hues.
The Maharani isn’t the only Asian woman of power that has stolen our breath away. Queen Sirikit Kitiyakon, Regent of Thailand, is another figure that has been featured prominently in fashion across the world. Currently, her majesty rules over Thailand as its regent, having performed her duties exceptionally while King Bhumibol Adulyadej took a leave of absence from the throne to enter Buddhist monkhood in 1956, a tradition of kings in Thailand. Since then, she has maintained her regency as the second Siamese queen to ever hold that power.
The queen, left, sitting on golden cushions in Chakri Palace wearing a court Siwalai dress of gold and diamonds she initially wore to the Greek Royal wedding, designed by Pierre Balmain. Top right, she’s photographed wearing a Thai silk Boromphiman ensemble.
The queen is captivating not only for her grace and beauty, but also for the opulence of the Thai monarchy and traditional dress. The narrow sleeves, high necklines and columnar skirts the queen wears with traditional pride are a direct inspiration for our fashions here.
Queen Sirikit Kitiyakon was featured in Vogue of February this year with her children. Here she wears traditional Boromphiman formal attire, an inspiration for the womenswear we see today.
The fashions and palettes of these women are far from the only things that inspire us. We’ve also turned to the jewels of South Asian monarchs. From dripping teardrop earrings to festoon necklaces laden with diamonds and rubies to golden bangles worn up on the forearm, Western women are mimicking the royal jewels as a statement about modern women, decadence, and power.
Take for example, the Patiala Necklace. The House of Cartier created the necklace in 1928 for Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. It was encrusted with nearly three-thousand diamonds, one of which was the De Beers diamond, seventh largest in the world. The necklace disappeared from the royal treasury in 1948, shrouding the impressive collar in mystery and igniting imaginations.
Collars like the Patiala Necklace pictured left were worn by great male leaders of India. Adopting these elements of design in women’s jewelry in the West is a powerful statement for the fight against the patriarchy likely coming our way.
It’s refreshing to see our industry be inspired by not only the beauty of famous women in history, but also their independence and power. That young western women are looking up to figures such as Queen Sirikit Kitiyakon, Regent of Thailand and Maharani Gayatri Devi is significant. We are once again using our beauty and fashion, like many before us, as a statement of women’s independence and the history of our power. We are living in exciting times! I have much anticipation for whatever happens next.
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Love. The fluttering of butterflies, entire acceptance of another, passionate desire, comradery, compassion, a word. Love is used so often and means so much that it's practically a cliché. I hear it applied to numerous names on the radio, such as "Johnny," "Wendy," and "my darling in Michigan." Nearly every man on television has a woman to love or fall in love with. And perhaps the most visible example at the moment is the squealing masses of girls my age who claim to be in love with the Beatles. I once, foolishly, saw myself above it all. Sure I like to date, and I love my parents, but those gooey feelings that seem to saturate every cranny of our culture were beyond me and my maturity.
That is, until America's most charming actor came along.
This is how I fell hard for handsome, clever, talented teen idol of the century: Tony Randall.
My first real encounter with Tony Randall (one Password game I don't remember aside) was his starring role(s) in Seven Faces of Dr. Lao. The movie itself was whimsical and fun, but it was certainly Randall's acting that made it a memorable experience. He blends into each of his seven roles perfectly, to the point that I first believed they were played by different actors!
He's at his best though, when he is playing Dr. Lao; specifically when he drops the stereotypical façade of a foolish Chinese man and becomes the traveled scholar underneath. Suddenly he is standing straight and tall, almost regal in his confidence. His voice is deep and carrying, but his demeanor is kind, wise, and gentle. He speaks in a perfect and precise manner and his words discuss the magical secrets of the universe. I hadn't known it at the time, but despite all the makeup and effects, this role was one of the closest to Randall's true self.
At this point, I was awed by Randall's performance in the movie, but felt little beyond that. Dr. Lao was a few thousand years too old for my tastes, and I had yet to see the man behind him more clearly. Then my father's and my weekly Password viewing happened to feature a very special guest. I was quite excited, not necessarily because it was Tony Randall on Password, but simply because it was an actor that I recognized and admired. At least, that's how it started.
I was folding laundry while watching the TV, and I found my attention frequently drifting away from my linens and to the man on screen (no, not host Alan Ludden.) Randall was fascinating to watch. He always sat with perfect poise and spoke with wonderful rich tones. And he was absolutely erudite, forcing me to pull out a dictionary a few times. His brilliance aided in his gameplaying as well, as I believe he is the only player in Password history so far to win four games in a row!
It was an experience. The feelings crept up on me and changed. I admitted later that night to my father that I may have had the teensiest tiniest insignificant little crush on Tony Randall. After a bout of laughter and teasing, suddenly our dining room table was covered in TV guides and movie schedules in a desperate search for a single starring name. This wasn't just a harmless crush anymore, but rather a crusade to expose myself to as much Tony Randall content as possible.
That's how the family ended up at the local theater watching one of the last viewings of Boys Night Out, a movie starring James Garner, Tony Randall, and a host of others. Three married men and one recently divorced make a plan to share a luxurious apartment where they can each escape from their lives at home with a beautiful girl for a night. Except the beautiful girl they find turns out to be a sociologist, so those nights don't go quite as expected. It was a cute film with hopeful messaging and a good ending. Not to mention how amazingly colorful the sets and costumes were.
Unfortunately the direction wasn't the best, making the movie a little boring in parts. It didn't help that Tony Randall was only in some of the scenes. Even when he was on screen he played a man meant to be weak, average, and unintelligent. Randall did a fantastic job portraying the character, down to the deliberate slouching, but it was infuriating to watch because he was playing the complete opposite of the man I wanted to see– himself! Sadly this would become a trend…
Next we found a drive-in playing a double feature revival night of Barbara Eden movies. Funny enough both films also happened to star Tony Randall. First we watched The Brass Bottle, your typical genie story. Randall plays a young up and coming architect (a role better suited for literally any other male actor in Hollywood) who accidentally frees a genie of near limitless power who now answers to his every whim. Of course the genie is a few thousand years out of date, so how he executes those orders varies from inconvenient to disastrous for Randall's character.
Overall the movie was terrible, even with Randall's superb acting (once again wasted on a slouching, sputtering fool.) The one good scene is when Randall gets to interact with the mule and has to ad lib. for part of it. Randall also executes quite a few fantastic girly screams. That's it though; otherwise it's a one star movie.
The second movie carried a little more promise: Will Success Ruin Rock Hunter? was Randall's breakout role into cinema, after all. Randall plays a young up-and-coming marketing executive – I'm noticing a pattern here – who accidentally seduces a movie star and is turned into the world's best lover overnight, causing chaos to ensue in his life. The movie had too much it wanted to do. It took time in the introduction and halfway through for comedic bits poking fun at television and marketing. Its main plot sacrificed character development for ridiculous slapstick that wasn't particularly funny, and ultimately the ending was thrown out too, to fit in a speech about the moral. Despite all these flaws, it was still a better movie than Brass Bottle. It was clever in a few parts, and watching Tony Randall be mobbed by teenage girls was hilarious.
Both films are a testament to Randall's acting skills. He takes these roles of such generic characters and plays them to a T. This means aside from some very brief moments where the mask slips, I don't actually get to watch the actor that I know and like. For instance, I know that Tony Randall started in stage productions and is a professionally trained dancer. Yet twice in Rock Hunter he is forced to dance poorly, going against all his instincts and training, and he succeeds (at dancing poorly)!
Randall has so much potential as an actor, and yet no one can seem to cast him in anything but comedic romps (excluding the unusual case of Dr. Lao)! It makes me wary of the new Fluffy movie that's just come out. Especially considering Randall himself had an unpleasant time filming with the lion. I will still see it of course – I have a duty to uphold – but I've found that Randall's name in the credits doesn't guarantee I'll enjoy a film he's in.
On the bright side, television has been kinder (both to him and me) than the movies. I got to see Randall on What's My Line? last week and he was as composed and well spoken as ever. I hear he'll also be on Password again in the next few weeks, so have something to look forward to.
I also hope to see him in one of his stage shows. With all the character and energy he brings to each role on the screen, I bet he really shines under the spotlight. Nevertheless, whatever he's in next, be it on film, video, kinescope, or (if I'm lucky) on a stage, I'll be there to watch it.
Because I have a big old crush on Tony Randall.
This is the Young traveler, signing off.
If you want to see more of the Young Traveler, come register for this week's The Journey Show!
We'll be discussing the latest fashion trends of 1965, and we have some amazing guests including the founder of Bésame Cosmetics. Plus, you'll get to see the Young Traveler show off her newest outfits!
Poetry has an unusual place within the science fiction and fantasy community. Many of the earliest and most influential works come from poetry, such as the Norse epics or Spenser’s Faerie Queen, continuing into the 19th century with pieces such as Rosetti’s Goblin Market and Childe Roland to the Dark Tower Came by Robert Browning.
This has continued in the speculative magazines, with poems regularly featured in F&SF and Galaxy.
However, introduction of more experimental forms has come to be as important a dividing line as the "message" and "anti-message" divide we have seen debated for the last decade. Even more literary writers such as Brian Aldiss are not always in favour, describing William Burroughs as “piss” in a letter to Zenith.
For myself I love to see more experimental forms and beat poetry, the likes we have seen emerging in the post-war era, ever since I read Donald Allen’s anthology, The New American Poetry.
The New American Poetry Collection
So as such I was fascinated to see on BBC News that there would be a meeting of International Poets at the Royal Albert Hall.
The Venue For The Evening
Me and my wife applied and were pleased to receive tickets. It was a fascinating list of poets
Poster For the Incarnation
With the performance starting at 6:30 I was able to meet my wife just outside our offices and grab an early bite to eat before taking the underground round to South Kensington (thankfully my offices only being a short hop away).
Heading into the Royal Albert Hall we found the place to be packed, causing me to momentarily worry we had turned up on the wrong day and Bob Dylan was playing here again. The Royal Albert Hall seats around five thousand people and to see this many interested in seeing Avant-Garde poetry was a shock and a delight.
On the way in people were handing out flowers and the whole thing was a curious atmosphere, with a stage covered in foliage and the clanking of bells. Almost funereal. There was also a lot of smoke about but I think the was more from the audience than an attempt to create a specific mood. (We were up in the gods ourselves so did not get as affected by this as much as those in the stalls much have done, which is a good thing given my wife suffers from asthma).
This evening is an experiment and we are finding out what happens when you put 5000 people in a hall with a few poets… – Alexander Trocchi
Pre-Event Bulletin
As it was a very long night I won’t take you through all the performances but will highlight some of the most memorable:
Laurence Ferlinghetti
Lawrence Ferlinghetti’s To Fuck Is To Love Again was an excellent crowd pleaser. Making brilliant use of irony, metre and giving a rousing performance, he wove a journey about sexual repression and the pointlessness of division.
Harry Fainlight
Harry Fainlight’s The Spider was frustratingly interrupted and he took it hard. However, the poem is a brilliant dark piece that he performed really well under the circumstances. It takes a dark journey into the mind of someone who believes themselves being transformed into a spider and how this compares to their own mental state. If it was published in Fantastic, I am sure fantasy fans would be devoting many letters pages debating its merits (whilst I would myself be giving it five stars).
Adrian Mitchell
Adrian Mitchell's poem To Whom it May Concern was a little more traditional than some of the others, having spent a long time on the British poetry scene and in anti-war causes, but probably my favourite of the evening (and many others given the level of applause he received). It is an angry piece against the war in Vietnam and contains amazing imagery:
I smell something burning, hope it's just my brains. They're only dropping peppermints and daisy-chains
Ernst Jandl
Ernst Jandl gave a fascinating performance that was mostly through sounds but was really meaningful nonetheless. This included one that was done entirely through sneezing! I had never heard sound poetry before but it is a really interesting and something I would like to see more of.
Allen Ginsberg
Allen Ginsberg was obviously the star attraction and gave a performance in his usual powerful style, sounding like he is forcing the words out in a flow of emotion. These included his epic The Change and a brand new one combining viscerally disturbing imagery, despair and current politics.
He also read New York Bird by Russian poet Andrei Vosnesensky. Apparently Russian authorities would not allow Vosenesky to perform his own poem, so Ginsberg performed it in his place.
Some of the performances were less memorable and there were also some highly expected performers, like Pablo Neruda, who did not end up performing.
There were some downsides to the event. The whole thing seemed very disorganised, with no official running order. Nor was it really all their best performances. I have heard records of some of those present that have been significantly better.
It was also disappointing how all of the performers were men. Why not invite some excellent contemporary women poets like Diane Di Prima or Denise Levertov?
Poets Gathered Together, All Men
What was most fascinating about the whole experience was seeing these poets live, and being with so many others people who were interested in this kind of art. Whilst we there we saw the event being filmed, so perhaps it will spread even further?
Either way it was an exciting performance to be at and shows a healthy future for experimental writing around the world. The event lasted more than four hours so we headed home for the weekend very tired but also elated at what we had seen.
Will the poems of this calibre and experimental nature be featured in the SF magazines? It's hard to say, but I surely won't find it aught amiss if they do!
[Don't miss the next episode of The Journey Show, featuring singer-songwriter Harry Seldon. He'll be playing a mix of Dylan, Simon, and some unique original compositions!]
This review is late. The performance of "The Exception and the Rule" happened on May 7, 1965, produced by Bill Graham at the Gate Theater. However, I was too stunned to write earlier. Not only did the San Francisco Mime Troupe appear in one of Bertolt Brecht's Lehrstücke or dramatic exercises, but journalist and publisher Robert Scheer was featured after intermission. Also, as you can see from the program, Pauline Oliveros of the San Francisco Tape Music Center provided the music, so that was an attraction for me.
Program for "The Exception and the Rule"
In the play, the "exception" was a "coolie" who tried to give his master a drink of water. The rule was the master's fear of his abused underling that led him to see the flask as a "stone" and believe the coolie was trying to kill him. The results were the death of the coolie, shot by his master, the absolution by a judge of the master's actions (which were underlain by his need for "self defense"), and the protest of those who saw things otherwise.
No Exceptions to the Rule of White Masters
In the Mime Troupe's version, of course, the actors wore masks (in the tradition of the commedia del' arte in which they place themselves) and updated the 1929 work by Brecht, whom they outed as a "Communist." Whereas the results could be expected, the conclusions were disturbingly thought provoking. Here are some bits of dialog I wrote down: "The police fire out of pure fear." "One must go by the rule [the master's fear], not the exception [the coolie acts on fear of his master's dying of thirst while he was dehydrated]." "Dehumanized humanity" is a description of the coolie-master relationship that creates fear on both sides. "Sick men die but strong men fight" is the war cry of social Darwinism (not invented by Darwin). "He [the coolie] can't make us believe that he'll put up with it all," therefore he is "dangerous."
Scheer Opinion
After this disturbing performance with its comments on "class" and murder, Robert Scheer gave what the program called "a morality talk" on "The U.S. War in Vietnam." Scheer is now managing editor and editor-in-chief of Ramparts Magazine, a new left voice since 1962, produced here in San Francisco. He is also their Vietnam War correspondent.
Report from the Front
So how is the war going, you ask? Badly, my friend, badly, for both sides. It's like reporting on a journey that is uphill both ways. While that is a common trajectory in San Diego, which is all mesas and canyons, it's usually thought that if a war is going badly for one side it's going well for the other. Not so this war.
Violation of Geneva Accords
Scheer points out that the Geneva Accords of 1954 that ended the French war in Indochina mandated elections within 2 years to reunite Vietnam, with the present border meant to be temporary until elections could be held. In Vietnam, though, political battles have been fought on a literal battlefield rather than via the ballot box, and the US has been obstructing holding such elections precisely because the belief among US government officials is that Ho Chi Minh would win. Scheer compares and contrasts the situation of Negros in the South, whose voting rights have been interfered with, to the "n*gg*rs" of Southeast Asia, who are not allowed to vote at all in the present conflict.
Voting Rights and Human Rights
Deeper than that political comment, Scheer calls President Johnson's "voting rights" bill window dressing, and the lack of elections in Vietnam an avoidance of obstructing what he calls the "colonial ambitions" of the US in Asia. Scheer does not share the fear of Communist takeover as a form of political suppression of democracy, defining American "democracy" as suppressive in itself. According to him, in the US "white makes right," and in Vietnam "might makes right." He makes the point that as we slowly wake up to Negro rights in the US, we should also wake up to human rights in other parts of the world, particularly now in Vietnam, where both sides are clearly losing.
Suppressed Reporting
I've been listening to National Public Radio (NPR), reporting mainly by Christian Science Monitor correspondents, since NPR has little to no foreign-correspondent budget. They actually visit American troops and talk with the leaders, and their home editorial desks do not suppress their stories. So instead of publishing the US government press releases as the mainstream press does, the Monitor and NPR report what they see to the public. Scheer's commentary is in line with what I've been hearing. In March the US began systematic bombing of North Vietnam and the so-called Ho Chi Minh Trail–the supply route from North to South Vietnam. This began with the first landing of US Marines at Da Nang. Stories of atrocities persist but are not reported by the mainstream news.
As the World Turns
In short, I think I hear the noise of the world whizzing by, but I'm usually too scared or tired to lift my head, get up, and look over the ramparts of our middle-class consciousness. The Mime Troupe always provides such a view (while being raucous and funny), but what I saw this time was uncommonly scary. If you want to take a peek over the ramparts, buy the June edition of Scheer's magazine, at newsstands in the larger urban environments.
The Monokini, featured in orange. The Pope, Denmark, Greece, and the Netherlands have all banned it.
With summer on the verge, everyone’s attention is turning to swimwear, and I don’t think anyone will be talking about anything but Rudi Gernreich’s Monokini for a good while! The fashion activist is known for stirring up the hornet’s nest of Western sensibilities, apropos of his personal history and artistic goals. Let’s take a look at his past, and also at his shocking beachwear.
Rudi Gernreich, 1964.
Bear with me as I tell you of Rudi Gernreich’s childhood. He grew up in Vienna, Austria, the son of a stocking maker. He spent his afternoons in his aunt’s dress shop where he would sketch designs and share them with her clients. At age twelve, he was offered an apprenticeship by designer Ladislaus Zettel in London, but his mother declined due to his age.
His dress shop days did more than just betray his talent for fashion though. He recounts his first explorations of sexuality in fashion, and the liberation of women through their candid conversations in his young presence. His homeland was known also for promoting nude exercise during the time, in defiance of Western norms as much as for health. In 1938, Adolf Hitler banned this practice, and a sixteen year old Rudi fled Austria with his widowed mother for Los Angeles.
It was at this point that he began studying the arts in earnest. He attended the Los Angeles City College, and then the renowned Los Angeles Art Center School. He fell into fashion design some time after, a winding road that included dance and costume design, and a rejection of the American obsession with Parisian sophistication. He also helped found the Mattachine Society, a gay rights organization, in 1950.
Over the years, Gernreich's activist heart and artistic genius have formed a close bond, resulting in the scandalous Monokini. But we should have seen this scandal coming. In 1962 he predicted its arrival, saying that “bosoms will be uncovered within five years” in Women’s Wear Daily. And much to my amusement, he was recently quoted as saying that, for the sake of history, he had to fulfill his own prophecy before Emilio Pucci.
Peggy Moffit, photographed by husband William Claxton, in the infamous Monokini. It was named for its counterpart the bikini. A nice but inaccurate play on words. The bikini is named for the Bikini Atoll, an island used by the US for nuclear testing.
The result is the Monokini. Despite exposing the bust, it actually covers more skin than the bikini with its high-waisted bottom. Straps bisect the bust and run over the shoulders. In another nod to tradition and conservatism, the swimsuit is made of the same woolen fabric used in Victorian swimwear.
Women in 1925, wearing wool bathing suits. The material choices and shape of the Monokini speak to one of Gernreich's overarching goals in art: to humanize women rather than sexualize them through the freedom of their bodies.
The Monokini is a statement rather than merchandise. Although it’s currently on shelves, Gernreich has stated he doesn’t expect to sell any, and hadn’t intended to. In fact, he had to be persuaded to even take photos, calling on muse Peggy Moffit to wear it, and her creative cohort of a husband William Claxton to photograph it.
The journey of just the photographs itself is truly interesting. Look published the first photograph, from the back. Women’s Wear Daily followed suit, showing it from the front. When Gernreich approached Life about publishing the photos, their letter in response claimed they only print “aborigine” women’s breasts. (I would love to know Gernreich, Moffit, and Claxton’s thoughts on this! I hope notions such as this are abolished in quick fashion.) The image that lit the world on fire was accepted by Life however: Moffit with her arms crossed, covering her chest.
Despite Western reactions to the Monokini, Gernreich’s interests actually lay in the emancipation of women from over-sexualization and social censorship. He challenges the shameful gaze in Western beliefs, and tries to push society to see women as human beings rather than ‘other’. I find his work to be incredibly engaging and thoughtful, far more so than the tabloids make the Monokini out to be.
If the Monokini doesn’t single-handedly push us towards a moderate view of the human body, I’m sure Gernreich’s work in the next decade will!
May 1 is not just a public holiday in all of Germany, but also the traditional holiday of the labour movement. The day was celebrated with marches and rallies in both East and West Germany. In East Germany, the marches were the usual propaganda affairs. In West Germany, Turkish, Portuguese, Spanish and Italian flags were spotted at the Mayday marches, as immigrant workers from Southern Europe joined their West German colleagues to demand higher wages and better working conditions. Concerns about the political situation and lack of freedom in the home countries of some of the immigrant workers were raised as well.
May Day parade in Magdeburg, East GermanyMay Day rally in Cologne, West GermanyA Turkish flag at a May Day march in Cologne, West Germany.
In other news, 32-year-old war correspondent Horst Faas became the first West German ever to win a Pulitzer Prize for his haunting photos of the war in Vietnam. Happy as I am for Mr. Faas, I still hope that he will soon have to find more pleasant subjects to photograph.
AP photographer Horst Faas, the first West German to win a Pulitzer PrizeOne of Horst Faas' haunting photographs of the war in Vietnam that won him a Pulitzer Prize.
Maybe one day in the future, press photos like Horst Faas' will hang alongside fine art in museums and galleries around the world. Because there are certainly exciting movements afoot in the art world.
Art News
That's that for current events. Now for the meat of the article — a review of current art movements in this most modern year of 1965 (apropos given our show coming up in a few days):
The Reign of Abstract Expressionism
In the art world, Abstract Expressionism has been ruling supreme since the end of World War II, at least in the West. An outgrowth of prewar movements such as Futurism, Cubism, Constructivism, Expressionism, Surrealism, Dadaism and the Bauhaus, Abstract Expressionism is the art world's equivalent of the International Style in architecture and interior design. It is ubiquitous, wins awards, has the highest prestige and commands the highest prices. Abstract Expressionism also has widespread political support in the West, most likely because the Communists really, really don't like abstract art and prefer what they call Socialist Realism. There are even rumours that the CIA has been promoting abstract expressionism via the so-called Congress for Cultural Freedom, which certainly makes for strange bedfellows.
As a result, what was avantgarde and daring only twenty years ago had now become the very establishment that newer artists are rebelling against. And this rebellion is taking some very exciting forms.
Less is More: Minimalism
One reaction to the dominance of Abstract Expressionism was to take abstraction to its utmost extreme and simultaneously return to roots of modernism and the graphic simplicity of Russian Constructivism, the Dutch "De Stijl" movement or the German Bauhaus. This school, dubbed Minimalism, objects to the expressionist part of Abstract Expressionism and believes that art should not reflect its creator and his or her moods. Instead, art should be neutral, objective and refer only to itself. 29-year-old Frank Stella, one of the most notable figures of the Minimalist movement, sums up the aims of Minimalist art as "What you see is what you see."
"Marriage of Reason and Squalor" by Frank Stella, one of his "Black Paintings"
So what do you see, when you look at a work of Minimalist art? You'll see simple patterns, geometric shapes, hard edges, primary colours and monochromatic palettes. The so-called "Black Paintings" by the above mentioned Frank Stella consist of concentric stripes painted on raw canvas in the black wall paint that Stella uses in his day job as a house painter. Canadian artist Agnes Martin paints grids and stripes in pastel watercolours. Meanwhile, Dan Flavin eschews paint altogether and instead creates artworks from tubes of neon lights arranged in various geometric patterns.
"Summer" by Agnes Martin"A Primary Picture" by Dan Flavin
Minimalism is also a new trend for sculptures, as artists such as Donald Judd, Sol LeWitt or Tony Smith create sculptures that consist of geometric shapes such as cubes, prisms or triangles. So far, many of those sculptures only exist as sketches or cardboard models, but some such as "Cigarette", a 1961 Minimalist sculpture by Tony Smith made from twisted flat planes of steel, or "Free Ride", another Tony Smith sculpture inspired by the Aurora 7 mission, can be already seen in parks and on museum grounds.
"Cigarette" by Tony SmithThe minimalist sculpture "Free Ride" by Tony Smith was inspired by the "Aurora 7" space mission
So where can you see Minimalist art in the flesh? So far, New York City is ground zero for Minimalism and that's where you can find the respective artworks in galleries and exhibitions like Sixteen Americans at the Museum of Modern Art. So far, there hasn't been a dedicated exhibition of Minimalist art, though there are rumours that there is one planned for next year.
More is More: Pop Art
While the Minimalists responded to what they considered the excesses of Abstract Expressionism by reducing art to pure geometric forms, the Pop Art movement took a different path.
Pop Art arose in the UK in the 1950s, when a group of young artists calling themselves the Independent Group realised that both the prevailing Abstract Expressionism as well as the academic fine art of previous eras had very little to say about them and their lives. So these young artists began to incorporate the imagery they saw in their everyday lives into their works, imagery drawn from advertising, movies, pop music and comic books.
British artist Richard Hamilton describes pop art as follows:
Pop Art is: Popular (designed for a mass audience), Transient (short-term solution), Expendable (easily forgotten), Low cost, Mass produced, Young (aimed at youth), Witty, Sexy, Gimmicky, Glamorous, Big business
The Independent Group incorporated pop culture imagery into their works by reviving the collage, a form associated with early Modernism and Surrealism. Scottish artist Eduardo Paolozzi inadvertently gave the new movement its name, when his collage "I was a rich man's plaything", named after the headline of a True Confessions magazine, that was part of the collage, also included the word "Pop", fired out of a gun.
The collage "I was a Rich Man's Plaything" by Eduardo Paolozzi inadvertedly gave Pop Art its name
Meanwhile, British artist Richard Hamilton responded to the theme of an exhibition called This Is Tomorrow by cutting up some American magazines a friend had brought back from the US. The result was a collage called "Just what is it that makes today’s homes so different, so appealing?" which uses aspirational pop culture imagery to create a futuristic interior to brighten up the dreary postwar Britain. Across the pond in the US, Tom Wesselmann created a series of "Still Life" collages assembled from advertising images. Another American artist, Robert Indiana uses the typography and imagery of road signs and company logos to create his brightly coloured paintings.
The collage "What is it that makes today's home so different, so appealing?" by Richard Hamilton. Could it be the bodybuilder with the strategically placed sign?"Still Life No. 30" by Tom Wesselmann"Four Star Love" by Robert Indiana"The Fair Rebecca" by Robert Indiana
On the wall of the apartment Hamilton pictured in "Just what is it that makes today’s homes so different, so appealing?", the framed cover of an American romance comic hangs next to works of fine art. And indeed comic book imagery plays a big role in the nascent pop art movement.
Finding Beauty in Everyday Imagery
"Whaam!" by Roy Lichtenstein after Irv Novick
When his young son showed him a Mickey Mouse comic and said, "I bet you can't paint as good as that, eh, Dad?", American artist Roy Lichtenstein rose to the challenge and began copying and enlarging panels from comic books and even included the characteristic Ben Day dots of the printing process. Lichtenstein is clearly a fan of National/DC Comics and frequently copies panels from DC books such as Secret Hearts, Girls' Romance or All-American Men of War. And so Secret Hearts inspired the Lichtenstein paintings "Drowning Girl" and "Crying Girl", while All-American Men of War inspired "Whaam!", "As I Opened Fire" and "Okay, Hot-Shot". The comic book fan in me rejoices in seeing comic books elevated to fine art, though I wish that Lichtenstein would give credit to the artists whose work he copied, artists like Jack Kirby, Russ Heath, Tony Abruzzo, Irv Novick and Jerry Grandinetti.
"Drowning Girl" by Roy Lichtenstein after Tony Abruzzo"Crying Girl" by Roy Lichtenstein"Okay, Hot-Shot" by Roy Lichtenstein after Russ Heath
While Roy Lichtenstein finds inspiration in comic books, his fellow American pop artist Andy Warhol looks to his local supermarket, magazine photos and advertising imagery for inspiration, which is not surprising, since he began his career as a commercial artist, specialising in shoe ads. Shoes do not feature prominently in Warhol's art. Instead, he creates large silkscreen prints featuring product packaging such as cans of Campbell's soup, bottles of Coca Cola or packages of Brillo scouring pads.
"32 Campbell Soup Cans" by Andy Warhol"Green Coca Cola Bottles" by Andy Warhol
Reproductions and Originals
Magazine photographs are another source of inspiration for Warhol and so he transformed a publicity shot of Marilyn Monroe for Niagara into his so-called "Marilyn Diptych" and a publicity still of Elvis Presley for the western Flaming Star into prints with titles like "Eight Elvises" or "Double Elvis".
"Marilyn Diptych" by Andy Warhol, created shortly after Marilyn Monroe's untimely death."Double Elvis" by Andy Warhol
But Warhol also tackles more serious subjects in his art. His print series "Death and Disaster" uses magazine photographs of car crashes, race riots and suicides as well as the Sing Sing electric chair and a mushroom cloud and reproduces them over and over again, because – as Warhol said in a recent interview – "when you see a gruesome picture over and over again, it doesn’t really have an effect."
"Electric Chair" by Andy Warhol, part of his "Death and Disaster" series. The bright colours don't make the subject any more cheerful.
West German artist Gerhard Richter eschews the Pop Art moniker, but he also makes paintings based on photographs, slightly blurred to create an estrangement effect. Unlike Warhol and other American artists, Richter's paintings are based on snapshots and family photos such as "Tante Marianne", the haunting portrait of the artist as a baby posing with his then fourteen-year-old aunt Marianne Schönfelder. The portrait becomes even more haunting, if you know that Marianne Schönfelder was mentally ill and was murdered by the Nazis as part of their euthanasia program.
"Tante Marianne" by Gerhard Richter is based on a family photo showing the artist as a baby with his then 14-year-old aunt Marianne Schönfelder
The Democratisation of Art
In the beginning, many art critics were outraged by Pop Art's seemingly uncritical use of "low" subject matter such as comics, movies and advertising imagery. Furthermore, critics accused the Pop Artists of being mere copyists, incapable of creating something original. It seems those art critics have forgotten their art history, because using found objects in art is not exactly a new idea. Marcel Duchamp already did the same thing fifty years ago with his so-called "Readymades" such as his famous 1917 work "Fountain", a commercially produced urinal that Duchamp simply signed. Marcel Duchamp is still alive, though retired, and I like to think that he gets a smile out of the young Pop Artists taking up his methods.
Thirty years ago, philosopher Walter Benjamin wrote a notable essay entitled "The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction", wherein he postulates that a work of art loses its aura of uniqueness, when it can be infinitely reproduced via new filmic, photographic and printing technologies, and how this influences our perception of art. Benjamin also discusses the political dimensions of the then new mass media both as propaganda for Fascist (and Communist) regimes as well as its potential to democratise art.
"Liz" by Andy Warhol is a portrait of actress Elizabeth Taylor
The Pop Artists follow the latter path, because their art is both a reproduction of an existing work (comic books, magazine photographs, film stills, product packaging) as well as infinitely reproduceable in itself. Andy Warhol does not create individual paintings, but silk screen prints that he produces in his own workshop in New York City, the so-called "Factory". This makes his works much more affordable than traditional fine art to the point that a Warhol print is not out of reach of the middle classes who want to brighten their homes with some modern art. Though personally, I would go with Marilyn, Elvis, Liz or even the Campbell's soup can rather than the electric chair or a car crash. And if you cannot afford a Warhol print, Pop Artist Robert Indiana is creating a line of greeting cards for the Museum of Modern Art, so you can own a piece of Pop Art for less than a dollar.
Black and White: Op Art
The latest movement to shake up the art world is Op Art, short for Optical Art. The movement got its name last year when the Martha Jackson Gallery in New York City exhibited the works of Polish-born artist Julian Stanczak in the show Julian Stanczak: Optical Paintings.
Julian Stanczak has a tragic history – he was incarcerated in a Soviet labour camp as a teenager and lost the use of his right arm. Now forced to paint with his non-dominant left hand, Stanczak turned to abstract art as a way to escape his painful past. At the show in New York City, he exhibited striking black and white paintings whose patterns seem to flash, blur and vibrate in front of the observer's eyes due to his use of optical illusions. Look too long at a Stanczak painting and you might well get dizzy.
"The Duel" by Julian Stanczak
Meanwhile in the UK, a young artist named Bridget Riley chanced to see the painting "The Bridge at Courbevoie" by pointillist French painter Georges Seurat. The painting and its use of dots to create optical effects impressed Bridget Riley greatly, so much that she copied it and placed the copy in her studio.
"Movement in Squares" by Bridget Riley
Inspired by Seurat, Bridget Riley began to create pointillist paintings of her own. She started out with landscapes, but her paintings quickly turned abstract and also made use of black and white contrasts and optical effects.
Artist Bridget Riley with one of her striking Op Art paintings
Another Op Art pioneer, Hungarian-French artist Victor Vasarely was inspired both by the Bauhaus and Russian Constructivism and began to create abstract geometric artworks, which also exploit optical illusions much like the works of Julian Stanczak and Bridget Riley.
"Supernovae" by Victor Vasarely
It is not known whether Stanczak, Riley and Vasarely were aware of each other's work, but curator William C. Seitz brought their work and those of other optical artists together in an exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City entitled The Responsive Eye. The exhibition concluded two weeks ago and should help to bring Op Art into the mainstream.
Beyond Modernism: The Future of Art
Whether you prefer Pop Art, Op Art or Minimalism, contemporary art has not been so exciting since the heady avantgarde days of the interwar period.
But unlike the avantgarde of the first few decades of the 20th century, today's contemporary art is a lot more accessible and democratic. You don't need to be wealthy to purchase a print by Andy Warhol, a greeting card by Robert Indiana or the work one of the other exciting new artists. And who knows, if those artists take off, you may find yourself in possession of a very valuable piece someday.
Furthermore, you might even be inspired to create some art of your own. At any rate, the pop art collages by Richard Hamilton, Eduardo Paolozzi and Tom Wesselmann inspired me to grab a stack of magazines as well as some scissors and glue and make some collages of my own. Maybe I'll share them here someday!
Hyena Stomp by Frank Stella
Our last three Journey shows were a gas! You can watch the kinescope reruns here). You don't want to miss the next episode, May 9 at 1PM PDT, a special Arts and Entertainment edition featuring Arel Lucas, Cora Buhlert, Erica Frank…and Dr. Who producer, Verity Lambert! Register today and we'll make sure you don't forget.
Today's article is on architecture in the modern age, but first, I have a couple of news tidbits for you — one public and one personal:
For a Few Westerns More
While the "western" appears to be a declining genre in the United States, at least on the silver screen, West German audiences are currently flocking to the cinemas to watch an Italian western. Yes, you heard that correctly. After entertaining us with a seemingly endless stream of sand and sandal epics, Italian filmmakers have decided to try their hand at a new genre, the western.
The German film poster for "Per un pugno di dollari" a.k.a. "For a Fistful of Dollars"
The movie in question is called Per un pugno di dollari, which translates as "For a Fistful of Dollars". It features Clint Eastwood, star of the American western TV series Rawhide, as a nameless gunslinger. West German actress Marianne Koch, mostly known for sappy romantic fare, plays a Mexican damsel in distress. Per un pugno di dollari is an exciting movie, full of action and a lot more graphic violence than is commonly found in Hollywood westerns. However, if the plot of a nameless stranger getting involved in a feud between two rival gangs seems a tad familiar, that's probably because it is. Only four years ago, Akira Kurosawa told the same story, albeit set in 19th century Japan, in Yojimbo. And Kurosawa didn't come up with the plot either, but borrowed it from Dashiell Hammett's 1927 crime novel Red Harvest.
Nevertheless, I enjoyed it, and I'm looking forward to more of this Italian spin on an American genre!
A Happy Couple
Spring is also the time for weddings. And even though April has been cold and wet so far, I nonetheless attended a family wedding yesterday. Here are some photos of the happy couple.
Even twenty years after the end of WWII, there are still housing shortages in West Germany and therefore, the young couple above is thrilled to have found an apartment to start their new life together. I don't know what that apartment will look like, but thinking about it led me to contemplate contemporary interior design in general. So strap in for a tour of what's in, literally.
The Workplace of the Future
Last year, I brought you an article about the exciting modern buildings that are going up all over Europe and elsewhere. Futuristic buildings need futuristic interiors. Thankfully, today's designers are on the ball and are creating some amazing furniture that looks like nothing ever seen before.
In many areas, the so-called International Style, which emerged after World War II from the Bauhaus style of the 1920s and early 1930s, is still dominant. And indeed the clean lines and functional design of the International Style are perfectly suited to hotel lobbies, airport lounges and office buildings.
Companies like Vitra of Switzerland and Knoll International and Herman Miller Inc., both from the US, supply the headquarters of international companies with a mixture of classic thirty to forty year old Bauhaus designs revived for the postwar era as well as new chairs, desks and tables created by designers like Charles and Ray Eames. Of particular note is "Action Office", designed by Robert Propst and George Nelson for Herman Miller Inc. The mobile and modular "Action Office" system breaks up the rigid rows of desks which characterise many modern offices and allows for moving around chairs and desks. Shelving units and filing cabinets serve as dividers, allowing office workers more privacy. "Action Office" makes work seem like fun.
"Action Office" furniture system, designed by George Nelson and Robert Propst, with chairs by Charles and Ray Eames.
Of course, a modern office also needs modern equipment. The Italian company Olivetti produces some of the best and most functional office equipment currently on the market such as the "Praxis 48" typewriter with its bright green keys or the strikingly futuristic "Programma 101" programmable calculating machine. Owning an Olivetti typewriter or an IBM "Selectric" is the dream of many a writer.
An Olivetti store in Italy. What an innovative idea, a shop devoted only to the products of a single manufacturer of office equipment.The Olivetti "Praxis 48" typewriter, designed by Ettore Sottsass
Northern Exposure
But while the International Style may excel at furnishing office buildings, its minimalist purism does feel a little too cold and bland for the home. Thankfully, our Northern neighbours are on the case with furnishings that manage to be both modernist and cosy.
In the past three decades, Scandinavia has emerged as a source of beautiful and functional design to the point that Scandinavian Modern has become a recognisable style found in many homes in Europe (including my own) and beyond.
Traditionally, Scandinavian Modern has been associated with clean lines, neutral palettes and natural materials like wood, leather and wicker. A prime example is the beautiful "Hammock" chair by Danish designer Poul Kjærholm. However in recent times, Scandinavian designers have branched out and embraced materials like plastics as well as brighter colours.
Don't you just want to lie down in this "Hammock" chair by Danish designer Paul Kjaerholm?
A few years ago, Danish designer Arne Jacobsen created the incredibly comfortable organic forms of the so-called "Egg" and "Swan" chairs for the SAS Royal Hotel in Copenhagen, Meanwhile, his countryman Poul Volther designed the striking "Corona" chair, inspired by witnessing a solar eclipse.
The "Egg" chair by Danish designer Arne Jacobsen. Doesn't it look super comfortable?The "Swan" chair by Arne JacobsenArne Jacobsen's interior for the SAS Royal Hotel in Copenhagen, featuring the "Egg" chair.The "Corona" chair by Danish designer Poul Vohler was allegedly inspired by witnessing a solar eclipse.
Another Dane, Verner Panton, came up with such innovative designs as the "Moon" ceiling lamp, the "Cone" chair and a cantilever chair from a single piece of injection moulded plastic which is sadly only a prototype for now, though the Swiss company Vitra is looking at possibilities for mass production.
The "Moon" lamp by Danish designer Verner Panton brightens up this lobby.The "Cone" chair by Verner PantonThis chair prototype by Verner Panton is made from a single piece of plastic.
Eero Saarinen from Finland is mainly known as the architect responsible for such stunning buildings as the Trans World Flight Center, the Washington Dulles International Airport and the St. Louis Gateway arch. However, Eero Saarinen is also a talented furniture designer and the plastic "Tulip" chair he designed for Knoll International can be found in homes and boardrooms around the world. Meanwhile, Eero Aarnio, also from Finland, created the fabulous "Ball" chair, which is perfect for curling up with a good book.
These "Tulip" chairs were designed by Finnish designer eero Saarinen for Knoll InternationalWho wouldn't want to curl up with a good book in this futuristic "Ball" chair by Finnish desinger Eero Aarnio?
But Scandinavian designers also excel in fields beyond furniture design. In 1960, Jacqueline Kennedy made the colourful fabrics of the Finnish company Marimekko world famous, when she bought six Marimekko gowns for her husband's presidential campaign. Those carefree days may be over, but Marimekko is still producing striking and brightly coloured fabrics such as the "Unikko" (poppy) pattern, designed last year by Maija Isola.
Jacqueline Kennedy wearing a Marimekko dress on the cover of Sports Illustrated.The brightly coloured "Unikko" (Poppy) pattern was designed by Majia Isola for Marimekko last year.
Meanwhile, Danish designer Bjørn Wiinblad has shaken up the stuffy Rosenthal porcelain company with his elegant and modern designs such the "Romanze" dinnerware line, which can be found on many West German tables, including mine.
The "Romanze" dinnerware with its organic forms and embossed oval pattern was designed by Björn Wiinblad for Rosenthal porcelain.Danish designer Björn Wiinblad also created this striking "Juggler" candlestick for Rosenthal.
From Italy with Love
If Scandinavia is the centre of North European design, the style heart of Southern Europe beats in Italy.
Designer Joe Columbo from Milan may be only 34, but he has already created such revolutionary designs as the stackable "Universale" No. 4860 chair, the desk lamp "Acrilica", the "Combi-Centre" flexible storage cabinet and the "Elda" chair which would not look out of place on the bridge of a starship.
The "Acrilica" desk lamp by Joe Columbo is the most beautiful way to light up your desk.Get organised with this "Combi-Centre" storage cabinet by Italian designer Joe ColumboColoruful and practical: The stackable "Universale No. 4860" chair by Joe ColumboA chair fit for a starship captain: The "Elda" armchair by Joe Columbo
The "Arco" lamp, designed by brothers Pier Giacomo and Achille Castiglioni, is not just beautiful, but also combines the simplicity of a floor lamp with the illumination provided by a ceiling lamp. An "Arco" lamp currently brightens up my living room and was well worth both the price and the hassle of transporting the large and heavy lamp home in a small car. A few years earlier, the brothers Castiglioni also designed the deceptively simple "Mezzadro" stool.
The striking "Arco" lamp, designed by brother Pier Giacomo and Achille CastiglioniThe "Mezzadro" stool, designed by the brothers Castiglioni
But Italian design is not just beautiful – no, the Italians also pioneered the use of space age plastic materials for home furnishings. Above, I already mentioned the "Universale" chair from brightly coloured ABS plastic and the stunning "Acrilica" desk lamp, which turns a sheet of acrylic glass into an stylised ocean wave and lights up your desk, too. Another example of innovative plastic use is the line of "Throw Away" sofas and armchairs designed by Willie Landels for the Milanese company Zanotta. Outwardly, the boxy "Throw Away" armchairs and sofas may not look particularly exciting, but if you were to cut one open – not that you should – you'd find only polyurethane foam inside, no wooden frames or steel springs needed.
The "Throw Away" line of armchairs and sofas was designed by Willie Lendel for ZanottaSomeone took the name of the "Throw Away" armchair by Zanotta a little too seriously. On the plus side, you can see that the armchairs are so light that they float on water due to their innovative polyurethane core.
Making Household Appliances Beautiful
In West Germany, interior and product design are still very much influenced by the purist Bauhaus style of the 1920s and early 1930s. The rise of the Third Reich scattered the Bauhaus alumni all over the world, though some like Wilhelm Wagenfeld remained in West Germany. A son of my hometown of Bremen, Wilhelm Wagenfeld has created both lamps and tableware such as this teapot from heat-resistant borosilicate glass or the salt and pepper shaker combination "Max and Moritz". Wagenfeld's designs can be found in many West German homes, including mine.
This teapot from heat resistant borosilicate glass was designed by Wilhelm Wagenfeld.The salt and pepper shaker combination "Max and Moritz", designed by Wilhelm Wagenfeld
The original Bauhaus in Dessau has sadly vanished behind the Iron Curtain, but its spiritual heirs may be found at the Ulm School of Design, whose alumni found employment at corporations like Lufthansa airlines and the Braun AG.
The Braun AG has long been known as a manufacturer of high-quality radios, clocks, electric shavers, kitchen and household appliances. However, in the past few years, Braun has also become known for its functional and beautiful product design, courtesy of designers Dieter Rams, Hans Gugelot and Reinhold Weiss.
Braun's most famous product is probably the "Phonosuper SK4", which combines a radio and a record player in a single white box with a lid of clear acrylic. Due to its appearance, the "Phonosuper SK4" quickly gained the nickname "Snow White's coffin". But never mind the somewhat morbid nickname, your Beatles records have never sounded better.
Play your Beatles and Motown records on this stylish "Phonosuper SK4" radio and record player combination. Designed by Dieter Rams and Hans Gugelot for Braun AG, the "Phonosuper SK4" is also nicknamed "Snow White's Coffin".
I'm fortunate that my uncle works for the Braun AG and can hook me up with their latest products. And so I'm not only the proud owner of a "Phonosuper SK61", the improved follow-up of "Snow White's Coffin", but also of a Braun KM32 food processor and the HL1 desk fan, which keeps my office cool in the summer.
This Braun HL1 desk fan will keep you cool in summer. Designed by Reinhold Weiss.This Braun KM 32 food processor is the envy of every homecook.This striking circular kitchen scale was designed by Dieter Rams for the Braun AG.
Good Design for the Masses
The many striking examples of modern interior design I have presented above all have one thing in common. They may be beautiful, but they're also very pricey. So what is a couple with a limited budget like our newlyweds above to do? Stick with grandma's Victorian hand-me-downs, until they have saved up enough to be able to afford the stunning pieces seen above?
Not necessarily, because all over Western Europe companies are springing up to bring modern design to the masses at affordable prices. The foremost among those companies is IKEA of Sweden. Founded by Ingvar Kamprad, IKEA was originally a mail order business offering furniture for self-assembly. In 1958, IKEA opened its first furniture store in Älmhult, Sweden, followed soon by many others. Whether ordered by mail or purchased at a store, IKEA furniture always comes in a flat box, the contents of which the customer can assemble themselves. IKEA furniture is modern, practical and – most importantly – much cheaper than the expensive designer pieces seen above. Sadly, IKEA only operates in Scandinavia so far, but I hope that the rest of us will get to enjoy their products soon.
The 1965 IKEA catalogue offers Scandinavian Modern for the masses.IKEA founder Ingvar Kamprad and store manager Hans Ax outside the IKEA store in Älmhult, Sweden.
Over in Britain, a young designer named Terence Conran had a similar idea. In 1956, Conran created his "Summa" range of furniture, to be sold in flat boxes for self-assembly at home. However, Conran found that few stores would sell his products, so last year he opened his own shop, called Habitat, on Fulham Road in London. Like IKEA, Habitat offers good design at affordable prices. However, Habitat doesn't just sell furniture, they also offer kitchenware and other accessories from around the world to make your home beautiful. And so Habitat's most popular product is not furniture at all, but storage jars for dry pasta.
A look into the Habitat store on Fulham road in LondonBritish designer Terence Conran poses with the staff of his Habitat store in London.
The Return of Victorian Whimsy
But even though practical and beautiful modern furniture is available at increasingly affordable prices these days, the Victorian furniture and accessories of our grandparents, long considered old-fashioned and passé, is currently undergoing something of a Renaissance as well.
Particularly the Art Noveau style of the turn of the century with its flowing, organic designs is back en vogue both due to high profile retrospectives in museums in Paris and London and because the swirling designs of Art Noveau also happen to echo the psychedelic experience, something which would probably have baffled the great Art Noveau designers and artists such as Henry van de Velde, Alphonse Mucha or Aubrey Beardsley.
So far, the Victorian and Art Noveau revival seems to be confined to London, where the walls of trendy apartments are covered in vintage enamel advertising signs and the Biba boutique offers the latest fashions amidst an eclectic mix of Victorian furniture, Art Noveau wallpapers and ostrich feathers. So if you still have some of grandma's old furniture in the attic, by all that's holy don't throw it away, because it's about to come back into fashion.
The interior of London's trendy Biba boutique mixes Victorian furniture with up to date fashions.Miniskirts go well with Art Noveau wallpaper inside the Biba boutique in London.
But what do you do if you don't happen to have inherited any authentic Victorian or Art Noveau objects from your grandparents and if you can't find any at your local antiques store either? Luckily, companies like Dodo Designs of Tunbridge Wells, England, offer a range of tins, mugs, wall plaques and milliner's heads that look as if they fell out of a time warp.
A store display of Dodo design products in the Victorian style on Carnaby Street in London.
Hold onto your seat
With so many different styles and movements currently vying for customers, what will the home of the future look like? Of course, it's always difficult to predict trends with any certainty, but I do think that we will be seeing brighter colours and more furniture made from plastic. We will also be seeing stores like IKEA or Habitat expand and similar enterprises springing up in other countries. Finally, we will also be seeing older styles – whether it's the recently rediscovered Art Noveau of sixty to seventy years ago or the Bauhaus style of the 1920s and 1930s which never truly went away – coexist with the latest designs.
But one thing is certain. The home of the future will be bright, fun and exciting.
We had so much success with our first episode of The Journey Show (you can watch the kinescope rerun; check local listings for details) that we're going to have another one on April 11 at 1PM PDT with The Young Traveler as the special musical guest. As the kids say, be there or be square!
We still get letters from our contemporaries in 1965. This one was just too cute not to print. Feel free to keep sending them — maybe yours will get an off-schedule run!
by Jimmy Croff
Hi Mister Time Traveler Man,
Here are some photographs and stuff I have collected.
I am twelve years old. My birthday is March 26! I am in the sixth grade at Will Angier Elementary School. My teacher is Miss Blickenstaff.
I am an altar boy at St. Columba church and am a Tenderfoot Boy Scout in Troop 275.
I like seeing your pictures and stories. I like to write poems but I don’t know much about the science fiction stuff you talk about. I am reading the Narnia books and just about cried when I found out there are only seven.
When you talk about negroes marching for rights, I don’t understand why they have to march or why people are mean to them. There is a negro girl in our class, she is really nice.
Hey, I saw you write about a holiday called Purim. I never heard of that. My teacher says it is Jewish. There is a kid in my class named Larry who said he is Jewish. He is nice too but I still don’t know what Jewish means.
I like your space stuff because I want to be an engineer or join the Peace Corps because President Kennedy said we should.
You can use my stuff if you want but I mainly just wanted to show you a little about a twelve year old kid.
Sincerely,
Jimmy Croff
We'll be talking about these space flights and more at a special presentation of our "Come Time Travel with Me" panel, the one we normally do at conventions, on March 27 at 6PM PDT. Come register to join us! It's free and fun…and you might win a prize!
For those outside the UK it may surprise people how closely controlled radio broadcasting is by the BBC. Whilst we have had commercial television for 10 years, you officially only have a choice of the BBCs 3 radio stations (unless you happen to live on the Isle of Man, but I will get to that later).
These are The Home Service, which is primarily dedicated to talk and drama (with a strong religious and educational focus), Network Three, which is primarily dedicated to classical music but with some jazz and educational content in between (such as Spanish For Beginners & Shorthand Dictation), & The Light Programme, for mainstream entertainment.
However, although The Light Programme is theoretically a national service for mainstream entertainment, this should not be mistaken for being a pop music radio station as you would have in America. The time is more regularly devoted to big band and soundtracks, with one of the most popular programmes being Housewives’ Choice
There are some specific slots set out for the kind of music that regularly appears on the charts, primarily on a Sunday. One of the most popular is Brian Matthew’s Easy Beat which, as the name suggests, tends to feature more easy listening popular artists such as Kenny Ball, The Hollies, and Val Doonican. Whilst it does feature some interesting artists, the Sunday Morning slot (just prior to broadcast of a church service) does not make it the most lively programme. At 4pm is Pick Of The Pops which features chart music and presented by Alan Freeman. Finally, late at night is The Teen Scene, which also features interviews with popular artists.
Why does the BBC provide so little for modern pop music? From what I have heard, many at the BBC radio consider their remit to be educational and do not have a high opinion of current musical trends. As such, it is not surprising that many people have sought out alternatives to the BBC’s monopoly over the airwaves.
Offshore Stations
Being next to the continent of Europe, those in the South of England can often get foreign signals quite easily.
The most popular of these is Radio Luxembourg. With (they claim) the most powerful radio transmitter in Europe they have been broadcasting in French and English to Britain since the 1930s. This decade they have begun to target the teenage market primarily and using American style DJs live. Until last year Luxembourg was the easiest place to access pop music.
There is now one commercial station officially licensed by the UK, Manx Radio. The Isle of Man, which sits in the North Sea between The Lake District and Northern Ireland, is a crown dependency but has its own parliament and laws. Last year they negotiated with the British Parliament to be allowed their own commercial radio station.
Manx radio began broadcasting in June from a small hilltop caravan. Its programming makes for an unusual combination, as it has the pop records and attempts to recreate the styles American disk jockeys you can hear on Radio Luxembourg, but mixed in between them is a lot of local flavour. We get the real sense this is a true rural homespun affair with ads for local businesses and news of life on the island. In many ways these idiosyncrasies make it as different as it might be possible to get from the stuffed shirt attitudes we get from the BBC presenters.
However, many people are turning their dials to a new kind of programming, pirate radio
Pirate Radio
Radio piracy is nothing new. The 1930s was also a major period for pirate radio: the IBC were broadcasting English language radio from mainland Europe, whilst West End hotels broadcast live dance bands from their own ballrooms. I am personally too young to remember those days, yet it is curious to wonder where we would be if the war had not disrupted so many of these.
The direct antecedents of today’s pirate radio ships are probably Radio Mercur and Radio Veronica. The former starting in 1958 for Scandinavian audiences and the latter for Dutch listeners in 1960, these broadcast from offshore ships and showed that 1) There is an audience for all-day pop music radio aimed at the teenage market & 2) it could be a successful commercial operation. And around a year ago British audiences got their own version, Radio Caroline.
Ronan O’Rahilly, owner of the Scene club and small-time record company owner, decided to park just a few miles off the British coast and began broadcasting a different kind of radio. Here it is a steady stream of pop music with casual DJ platter and a freedom to promote newer artists to the audience. One good example of this is 24 year old Tom Jones, whose debut record It’s Not Unusual has not been played on the BBC but has been getting regular airplay and has been slowly climbing the British charts as a result.
One of the best loved DJs is Tony Blackburn who intersperses his playing of fantastic pop records with a regular stream of quick puns. A world away from the reserved presenters you get on The Light Programme.
Since the merger with Radio Atlanta (another Pirate Radio ship that quickly followed Caroline’s lead) these two ships can broadcast to almost the entire British Isles. However, there are a couple of flaws in the broadcast. Foreign signals disrupt the broadcast after 9pm which means the show stops broadcasting. Also, from what I have heard, in Northern Scotland, South Wales, and Cornwall the signal gets very weak. It is best able to supply those in the South East and North West of England.
However, Caroline now has a major rival in the form of Radio London. Also known as Big L or Wonderful Radio London, was started by a group of Texan Car Dealers in the mould of Radio Caroline and based on a former minesweeper sporting a radio mast which is (they claim) more than 200ft tall.
Whilst only in operation since December they have already attracted a loyal audience via a combination of the clear experience demonstrated by their team and being explicitly a top 40 station, with their own weekly Fab 40 Chart we get to hear from.
Then we have the more unusual case of Radio City. In order to understand this you have to first know of two oddities of British life, the sea forts and Lord Sutch.
During the Second World War a whole range of armoured forts were built off the British coast in order to help defend against German attacks. These have since all been decommissioned and have been sitting empty off the British Coast. Last year one of these was seized by David Edward Sutch AKA Screaming Lord Sutch.
Lead singer of the rock group Screaming Lord Sutch and the Savages, Sutch has become much written about in the newspapers for his unusual stunts, such as outlandish stagecraft and standing for election as a candidate for The National Teenage Party. Yet his records had a lot of trouble getting any airplay and he has been outspoken about the need to liberalise radio.
As such last May he took over Shivering Sands fort and began broadcasting Radio Sutch. As well as record play there were such segments as readings from erotic novels and other material designed to shock. This enterprise ended up being more important for the stunt than the actual broadcast as the transmitter was only able to reach a small area of the mainland and he soon sold it to his unofficial manager Reginal Calvert, who renamed and relaunched the operation as Radio City.
This is a somewhat more professional operation than Sutch put together, able to hit a lot more people but retains a little of the more eclectic content with output varying between new music releases to comedy to even evangelical broadcasts from local religious organisations.
The Current Battle
So as the number of pirate radio broadcasts continues to grow, so does the opposition to it from the government’s side. As well as the continued outspoken statements from The Postmaster General Anthony Wedgewood-Benn, Britain became a key signatory to the European Agreement for the Prevention of Broadcasts transmitted from Stations outside National Territories in January, designed to stop Pirate Radio.
In 1962, the Government had investigated the possibility of licencing of commercial radio but had concluded there was no demand for it. Yet a report from last year found that in areas where Radio Caroline has a good reception around one-fifth were identified as Caroline ‘addicts’, 70% of them under 30 years old. At the same time a Gallup Survey estimated the listening audience at seven million.
Pirate radio clearly has a big cultural grip on the British Youth and is loathed by the establishment. Who will win in this battle remains to be seen, but I will keep turning my dial to 199 for my daily dose of Caroline.
[The current "in" thing is Op Art, the manipulation of our visual sense in the two-dimensional plane. Perhaps no artist is more representative of this movement than M. C. Escher, and no day is more appropriate for a love letter to said artist than Valentine's Day…]
by Victoria Lucas
A Fine Romance
It was simple. I walked into a room and there was this man. Well, not exactly the man himself, but there are self portraits. It was still love at first sight.
Maurits Cornelis Escher
I think I wrote about working on Battery Street in San Francisco, 633, as a matter of fact, for the capitalist taskmasters U.S. Leasing Corp. (I'm kidding–I'm not that far left. But I don't like what they do to people who can't make payments on their rented cash registers.) From that debt factory, just a 7-minute walk up (north on) Battery takes me to 1168 and a little gallery established in 1962.
The Vorpal Gallery
Named after the "vorpal" blade in Lewis Carroll's poem "Jabberwocky," Vorpal Gallery represents many artists, but I have eyes only for M. C. Escher. Well, maybe I do glance at the other artists represented–occasionally, after I've had my fill of the master after work or at lunch break. I pounce on any new work and gulp it in, forgetting about food.
Another Kind of Relativity
To introduce you to this man's work, here, for instance, is "Relativity," about which the artist wrote, "In this picture three gravitational forces operate perpendicularly to one another. Men are walking crisscross together on the floor and the stairs. Some of them, though belonging to different worlds, come very close together but can't be aware of each other's existence."
Relativity, by M. C,. Escher
Going Dutch
Born in the Netherlands, Escher became a graphic artist who made mainly lithographs, mezzotints, and woodcuts, but also carved three-dimensional objects. (See below.)
Escher's Sphere with Reptiles, from 1949
Escher's work is mathematics made visible. No formulas, just breathtaking elegance, beauty, simplicity. He works with space-filling forms, like his spheres and tessellations. He loved Italy for its landscapes and warmth, lived and worked there for many years. However, although he had no politics to speak of, he felt forced to leave Italy when, after meeting and marrying a woman in Siena, and having a son, he couldn't stand the sight of his son wearing a school-mandated fascist uniform in the 1930s. (They moved to be near his wife's family in Switzerland.)
Transforming the World
No subject is too humble or too fantastic for this man. No matter how you orient this image of a puddle, it works to reflect and refract the world.
Escher's puddle, 1952
I want to continue to see the world through his eyes. I'm not sure one lifetime is enough for that.
Find Your Own Puddle
In any case, whether you want to fall in love or not, I suggest you find a room or a book or a card with images by this Maurits Cornelis Escher who was fascinated by repeating patterns and impossible views. I've found mine.