by Gwyn Conaway

One of the brightest fashion minds of our time has been hiding under our very noses. Though she isn’t an atelier in Paris, she has pulled the rug right out from under our feet. André Courrèges, whom I spoke about in my last article, is often attributed with inventing the miniskirt, but it’s Mary Quant who holds more claim over its popularity and invention. From her store in London to her fresh polka dots, let’s look at how Mary Quant is propelling fashion forward in a fresh way.

Mary Quant in her studio, developing her ideas for the early 1960s. On the right, see her wearing her fully-realized mini skirt fashion herself. Her post, activity, and sharp demure perfectly sum up the powerful woman behind this bold trend.

Bazaar, Quant’s boutique on the corner of Brompton and King’s Road in London, opened its doors in 1955. The store has since become a hallmark of the neighborhood. After the dreary reconstruction of London, middle-class women yearned for bold palettes and fast-paced silhouettes. While these fashions could be seen in films and magazines and the runways of Paris and New York, Bazaar offered this to the masses.

Quant started pushing the boundaries of skirt hems in the fifties, shortly after Bazaar opened. She wanted to create a fashion that allowed women to chase after the bus, when necessary. A truly modern woman, she exploited utility to create iconic looks that felt hip and powerful.

Quant considering her design choices this year, 1964.

And she hasn’t let up as 1964 comes to pass. Just last year, her design was named the first Dress of the Year by the Fashion Museum, Bath, which promises to be a long-standing tradition. The ensemble in question is a grey wool ‘Rex Harrison’ cardigan dress with a cream blouse, the bow collar hanging almost as long as the hem above the knee. This expert balance of professional and whimsical, classic sentiments being redefined by a younger, bolder generation, are the hallmarks of a Mary Quant design.

Unlike the mod trends of André Courrèges, Mary Quant puts modern women at the forefront of every decision. Her garments are fashionable, yet comfortable. They’re utilitarian, for a girl on the go, rain or shine, while encouraging individuality in a way that Courrèges does not. While his fashions are technologically utopian in theme, lifting up the Space Age and Futurism, Quant’s designs are made to let city women live a powerful dream. 

Graphic yet delicate silks paired with classic, nubby wools are a favorite contrast for Quant. Her stripes and polka dots speak of timeless femininity while wrapped in the sturdy embrace of tweed and loden. Even her PVC raincoats, as seen above, carry that delicate balance between powerful and whimsical. Note the peter pan collar, a staple of girls’ fashion in the 1950s, now becoming a symbol of a rising, intellectually-driven beauty industry made by women, for women.

Not only do her fashions bring us forward, but they also pay homage to the groundbreaking efforts of Coco Chanel, and the leaps women took to join the modern age in the 1920s. Note the dropped double-welt pockets, hanging parallel to the skirt hem, and the self-fabric belt draped across the hips.

Yes, Mary Quant’s reach has extended far beyond fashion, into the mentality of Londoners and fashion enthusiasts across the world. No longer does fashion belong only to the ateliers in Paris, or Savile Row. Perhaps the second half of the twentieth century will be shaped by the masses rather than social elitism. What a fantastic thought! Whether the name Mary Quant is on the tip of everyone's tongue in fifty years makes no difference. Her impact is resounding, and will guide beauty for our generation, and those to come.

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