by Gwyn Conaway

Farewell, Cleopatra! Hello, Maharani~

With summer well underway, silk wraps and teardrop jewels are in full bloom in the fashion scene. And while being in love with the Silk Road is nothing new in the West, we seem to be turning away from Egypt in favor of the majestic silks and gems of ancient kingdoms such as India and Thailand.

Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra, released in 1963 wearing the iconic 24-carat gold phoenix cape designed by Renie Conley. Note what Revlon has referred to as the “Sphinx Eye” makeup that has so heavily influenced women’s faces today.

Elizabeth Taylor’s depiction of Cleopatra in 1963 sparked a healthy obsession with women’s power in Europe and North America. Before we knew what hit us, her iconic smokey eye, dark brows, and blunt haircut took the beauty industry by force. Now, two years later, women are looking at powerful images in South Asia as a shining example of the adventurous spirit and strength of women across the globe.

Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur wearing a delicate sari and wrap, gold bangles, and two heavy strings of pearls as she discusses politics in a local community. The word “Maharani” can mean the wife of a great ruler, or “Maharaja”, but also a woman that is a great ruler. Great Maharani have wielded power in recent years in such places as Thailand, Nepal, India, and Malaysia.

Inspiration comes from India courtesy of Maharani Gayatri Devi of Jaipur, a member of the Indian Parliament and a purveyor of the arts. Having won her electoral race in 1962 in the largest landslide in history (winning 192,909 out of the 246,516 cast), she continues to be a force of social change. Thanks in part to her, we see the traditional Indian paisley patterns and silk wraps reminiscent of saris this year in Vogue.

Perhaps one of her most impactful contributions to fashion though, is the popularization of Rajasthani blue. This beautiful color is vital to arts and crafts of the region, and has inspired a blue palette steeped in mysticism in the West. In Vogue this February, Jacqueline described this as the “Maharani mood” for the spring of this year.

An advertisement in Vogue’s Feb 15th, 1965 issue for Jacqueline’s Blue-Jade and Baby Ganges hues.

The Maharani isn’t the only Asian woman of power that has stolen our breath away. Queen Sirikit Kitiyakon, Regent of Thailand, is another figure that has been featured prominently in fashion across the world. Currently, her majesty rules over Thailand as its regent, having performed her duties exceptionally while King Bhumibol Adulyadej took a leave of absence from the throne to enter Buddhist monkhood in 1956, a tradition of kings in Thailand. Since then, she has maintained her regency as the second Siamese queen to ever hold that power.

The queen, left, sitting on golden cushions in Chakri Palace wearing a court Siwalai dress of gold and diamonds she initially wore to the Greek Royal wedding, designed by Pierre Balmain. Top right, she’s photographed wearing a Thai silk Boromphiman ensemble.

The queen is captivating not only for her grace and beauty, but also for the opulence of the Thai monarchy and traditional dress. The narrow sleeves, high necklines and columnar skirts the queen wears with traditional pride are a direct inspiration for our fashions here.

Queen Sirikit Kitiyakon was featured in Vogue of February this year with her children. Here she wears traditional Boromphiman formal attire, an inspiration for the womenswear we see today.

The fashions and palettes of these women are far from the only things that inspire us. We’ve also turned to the jewels of South Asian monarchs. From dripping teardrop earrings to festoon necklaces laden with diamonds and rubies to golden bangles worn up on the forearm, Western women are mimicking the royal jewels as a statement about modern women, decadence, and power.

Take for example, the Patiala Necklace. The House of Cartier created the necklace in 1928 for Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. It was encrusted with nearly three-thousand diamonds, one of which was the De Beers diamond, seventh largest in the world. The necklace disappeared from the royal treasury in 1948, shrouding the impressive collar in mystery and igniting imaginations.

Collars like the Patiala Necklace pictured left were worn by great male leaders of India. Adopting these elements of design in women’s jewelry in the West is a powerful statement for the fight against the patriarchy likely coming our way.

It’s refreshing to see our industry be inspired by not only the beauty of famous women in history, but also their independence and power. That young western women are looking up to figures such as Queen Sirikit Kitiyakon, Regent of Thailand and Maharani Gayatri Devi is significant. We are once again using our beauty and fashion, like many before us, as a statement of women’s independence and the history of our power. We are living in exciting times! I have much anticipation for whatever happens next.

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